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Routes in The Matrix
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Humanavirus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trinity S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Bob Sihler and Jack Sihler; April 1, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 559 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Robert S on Apr 2, 2020 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Joanie Mars, Jim Day |
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Description
This is a crack route near the right end of the Matrix. In the local guidebook, it is mentioned as a possible solo with a 5.? grade, and there is no indication the author has climbed it or knows of anyone who has. Also, the route does not appear to have been touched anytime recently if ever at all. However, it would not astonish me if someone has free soloed this route before, and I have no problem being corrected and removing my claim of an FA on a 20' limestone trad route.
Since the routes at the Matrix have names that are references to the movie, my name for this route is in keeping with that since it alludes to Agent Smith's famous assessment of humanity. It also is a nod to the coronavirus outbreak at the time I climbed it. Note to virtue-signaling scolds-- the park was open to climbing at the time, and the one person with me was someone from my household.
This route has no bolts and no top anchors, and it would be nice to see it stay that way, unlike Trinity, which never needed to be bolted.
About the grade-- my son thought it felt no harder than 5.6 except for the slipperiness of the mossy part, but he admitted his perspective could have been skewed by being on toprope. I thought the bottom was harder due to tougher feet than what is typical of 5.6 around here, but I think 5.8 might be pushing it.
Since the routes at the Matrix have names that are references to the movie, my name for this route is in keeping with that since it alludes to Agent Smith's famous assessment of humanity. It also is a nod to the coronavirus outbreak at the time I climbed it. Note to virtue-signaling scolds-- the park was open to climbing at the time, and the one person with me was someone from my household.
This route has no bolts and no top anchors, and it would be nice to see it stay that way, unlike Trinity, which never needed to be bolted.
About the grade-- my son thought it felt no harder than 5.6 except for the slipperiness of the mossy part, but he admitted his perspective could have been skewed by being on toprope. I thought the bottom was harder due to tougher feet than what is typical of 5.6 around here, but I think 5.8 might be pushing it.
Protection
The first half took an orange Totem and a blue one in reasonably good rock. After that, the crack becomes mossy inside. Forget placing a cam. I think I could have gotten a yellow or blue Torque Nut to stick, but I just pulled through instead. Before topping out, I got a decent placement for a red Torque Nut.
There is nothing good directly above for an anchor, but two options exist. A bit to the right is a small tree consisting of a few trunks. With a long sling, you can sling one or more of the trunks. That is what I did, anchoring myself to the tree and belaying off my harness (I thought the position looked awkward for belaying off the anchor). Alternatively, you can go to a large tree several yards back. To avoid a lot of running the rope at a bad angle over the edge, use your end to make a long tether, and belay off your harness near the edge.
The topout was a little brushy when I did it but not bad, but I have seen it quite overgrown in the past. This might be best as a winter climb.
There is nothing good directly above for an anchor, but two options exist. A bit to the right is a small tree consisting of a few trunks. With a long sling, you can sling one or more of the trunks. That is what I did, anchoring myself to the tree and belaying off my harness (I thought the position looked awkward for belaying off the anchor). Alternatively, you can go to a large tree several yards back. To avoid a lot of running the rope at a bad angle over the edge, use your end to make a long tether, and belay off your harness near the edge.
The topout was a little brushy when I did it but not bad, but I have seen it quite overgrown in the past. This might be best as a winter climb.
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