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Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),
Avg: 3 from 3
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Boulders - Litt…
> Dead Worms Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Start sitting awkwardly on a sloping landing, with your feet on smeary nubs and your hands on smeary slopers. Get rhythm, and fly to the sloper! Mind you don't dab on the swing. Finish on the classic, and more moderate topout.
Spectacular movement in a nice, tight little package. Also, great name.
The Dead Worms area, if we are calling it that, is found from a small spur trail in upper hill. As you come up the hill, you pass High Life, Cronin's Arete. Uphill from Cronin's arete, you will cut through a couple of rock jumbles. Keep looking to your right. There will be a small spur trail that leads under a tight squeeze between overhanging boulder and tree branches. Cut across the slab, and avoid falling down a steep gully, and you will see Big Time on your left.