Type: Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches
FA: The Swamp Donkeys, 1/2020
Page Views: 318 total · 19/month
Shared By: Sam F on Mar 30, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Note: These ratings are my opinion and are only a suggestion in relation to the pitches in this area.

P1: (5.9 ⭐️⭐️) Begin by either climbing a neat little finger crack on the left side of the boulder below the slab, or scramble up to the top of the boulder. Then climb the easy slab into the fun corner above. Belay on a nice ledge up and right with two bolts. This rappel anchor is shared with the first pitch of Hidden Treasure. 90’

P2: (5.9+ PG13 ⭐️⭐️⭐️) Step left into the intermittent crack. Place a couple of good cams and then face climb through the short crux (5.9+ PG13) as the crack pinches down to a seam. When the crack reappears, a cool staircase feature will trend up and left to a sloping ledge above. Belay on the ledge with gear, one 3” cam and a couple of nuts. 105’

P3: (5.9- PG13 ⭐️⭐️) Face climb on interesting cemented knobs while placing tricky gear in the intermittent crack. Above, the crack opens up and the cliff angle decreases before a final short steep chimney. On top, build a belay using the boulders on the grassy ledge. 80’

Descent: Rappel the Lost Dutchman route. The raps start 50’ left of the top of P3. Look for the big cairn and easy down climb to the ledge below. Use the climber’s right side bolted anchor to begin the raps. Three single rope rappels to the ground.

Location

The first pitch climbs a slab with a big water streak on its right side into a big corner. Start on either the finger crack at bottom of the left side of the boulder below or scramble on top of the boulder.

Protection

70M rope, a confident canary, doubles BD .3-3, single .2 & 4, nuts, optional extra .5s.

Photos