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Family Affair

5.11, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: BMathisen
Virginia > Southwest Virgi… > Breaks Intersta… > Pinnacle Rock Area > Desert Pony Buttress

Description

Unique boulder problem to get off the ground (undercling and a high heelhook) lead to a bit of moderate face climbing followed by really great moves out the roof granting access to an excellent head wall face that will keep you on your toes.  

Location

Pass the arete/roof near "Simon Says" by about 100 feet.  This climb starts in a corner off of a boulder right next to the trail.  

Protection

8 bolts + Anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Trying to tall my way through the opening boulder instead of having to get scrunchy with the heelhook / sidepull beta
[Hide Photo] Trying to tall my way through the opening boulder instead of having to get scrunchy with the heelhook / sidepull beta

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
[Hide Comment] This route could be cleaned up nicely with a little brushing.

Not by me though, someone else go do it. Apr 26, 2023
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
[Hide Comment] Jared,
Send me a message with your address and I'll gladly mail you a brush or two. Boars hair, wooden handle, whatever ya like. I'm always happy to help the brushless. It's a small gesture but one that leaves routes even nicer for the next person, ya know? Apr 27, 2023
Peter Malander
Charlottesville, VA
[Hide Comment] Never heard of a wolf spider but they sound scary! I hope you are okay! May 12, 2023
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] I was not able to figure out the opening with the beta described here (heelhook and undercling). Instead, I found a different way using a crimp up and left. This could be the crux for many people. I thought the roof pull was the crux for me with high feet and small holds. Being tall maybe helps at the start but it could hurt you at the roof. 5 days ago