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Big Baby Jesus
V6 YDS 7A Font R
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in The Wasatch Resort
| Type: | TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 40.56959, -111.76613 |
| FA: | Cronin |
| Page Views: | 1,401 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Mar 22, 2020 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
One of the most feared highball boulders in LCC. Unlike other notables, such as KGB arete, Ready to Die, Prowler, or Blue Steel, the landing on this one is very poor. Not only are you high off the deck when you hit the crux (the last couple moves, I'd say), you are over two large funky boulders.
I'm trying to get away from highballs, but finally decided that if I was never going to boulder this, I could at least TR it. It was such a pleasure. There is a bolt on top that is barely useable (though someone hammered the hanger down to try to destroy it), and I backed up the TR with a cord to a tree behind.
If you are bouldering this, bon chance! The holds are all there. I'm sure you can do it. The rock can be a little slick, so careful not dry-firing off the holds at the very top.
Oh, and for those ambitious types, there is an even harder line that branches to the left on smaller holds that are farther apart (v7ish) that I TR'd clean today as well. After establishing on the two good crimps at 15 feet, it shoots up through left hand sidepulls to a thin crimp crux at the very top. To my knowledge, this has not been bouldered.
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