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David
5.12b/c,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 29
votes
FA: Adam Read?
New Mexico
> Enchanted Tower
> Enchanted Tower
> South/Southeast (Righ…
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
The first half of Goliath and very fun on its own. A good intro to the Tower's overhanging climbing. A semi-tricky spot lower down leads to sustained pocket pulling up the arete with plentiful good holds between harder moves. Hard to say where the crux is, it's mostly just a matter of hanging on similar to its big brother--Goliath.
Location
Front and center of tower, starts same as Goliath and Golden Stairs
Protection
[Hide Photo] Tim Campbell at the rest after the crux, before the final push to the chains
[Hide Photo] Tim Campbell mastering the balance of pocket pulling and arete climbing
[Hide Photo] Tim Campbell getting through the last bit of climbing before business starts
Picayune, MS
Albuquerque, NM