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The Heartbreaker

V7-8, Boulder,  Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
FA: Jeff Parmenter
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > * Bouldering in… > Mad Meadows > Heartbreaker Boulder
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Description

Starting standing with your right hand on a bad crimp sidepull and your left hand in the right side of a big obvious sloping slot. Climb right over the bad landing, making a couple big cruxy bump moves to another rectangular slot, then make a couple more moves which eventually lead to doing an awesome meatwrap move to the upper side of the lip, finishing with a "heartbreakingly" tough mantle. Very morpho - this route may feel like V9 if you're shorter. 
This cool hidden gem is apparently in the top 5 list of best V7s in Leavenworth according to Sheridan's guidebook, but I didn't think it's that good. I'm just giving it four stars due to its purity and aesthetic even if it isn't that popular.

Low start is V9 and there exist multiple variations on the boulder, with the normal V7 line being the "safest" - but the landing is still bad.

Location

Big triangle boulder. Find it by turning right slightly down the slope when hiking up to the main Mad Meadows boulders. Turn right in that flat meadow area into a faint trail heading straight to Leavenworth a couple minutes before the main boulders.

Protection

The landing is pretty rough and you would need to protect the uneven boulders under the mantle area. 5 pads will make you very comfortable. 

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Heartbreaker at night
[Hide Photo] Heartbreaker at night

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Drew Byron
Philadelphia, PA
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] Supposedly a crimp on the face broke making this pretty stout at V7. Either way it's really really fun. Oct 18, 2020
Davyd Tennis
Minnesota
  V8
[Hide Comment] Absolutely sick line that deserves more love! Some exquisite movement involving a set of heel and toe hooks as you work your way up to the mantle that makes this boulder's name quite appropriate.

Was able to still use what I assume was the broken crimp as a slopey intermediate.

Definitely feels like it favors the tall. Jul 30, 2022