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> Heartbreaker Boulder
The Heartbreaker
V7-8 YDS 7B Font
Avg: 3.8 from 9 votes
Type: | Boulder |
FA: | Jeff Parmenter |
Page Views: | 1,228 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Ahad A on Mar 21, 2020 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Starting standing with your right hand on a bad crimp sidepull and your left hand in the right side of a big obvious sloping slot. Climb right over the bad landing, making a couple big cruxy bump moves to another rectangular slot, then make a couple more moves which eventually lead to doing an awesome meatwrap move to the upper side of the lip, finishing with a "heartbreakingly" tough mantle. Very morpho - this route may feel like V9 if you're shorter.
This cool hidden gem is apparently in the top 5 list of best V7s in Leavenworth according to Sheridan's guidebook, but I didn't think it's that good. I'm just giving it four stars due to its purity and aesthetic even if it isn't that popular.
Low start is V9 and there exist multiple variations on the boulder, with the normal V7 line being the "safest" - but the landing is still bad.
This cool hidden gem is apparently in the top 5 list of best V7s in Leavenworth according to Sheridan's guidebook, but I didn't think it's that good. I'm just giving it four stars due to its purity and aesthetic even if it isn't that popular.
Low start is V9 and there exist multiple variations on the boulder, with the normal V7 line being the "safest" - but the landing is still bad.
2 Comments