Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m)
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge, Pascal Robert 1998
Page Views: 249 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bruce Burgess on Mar 13, 2020
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A stout and amazing 2 pitch journey up the middle of the Lakeview wall that will reward you with some of the finest sustained steep slab and face climbing at the Bald. The start is the same as for Boot Hill and if climbed as we did originally is the only true R part of the first pitch. Sling the healthy Chestnut Oak very high and cast of on the delicate and committing 5.9+ right rising traverse up to a gear slot 8 feet below the first bolt.  This runout could be avoided with a very tall stick clip, but I have not tried it. The rest is PG 13.  Tiny crystal edges and high steps get you past the 2nd bolt and up to a bomber cam slot (multiple gear options here). Climb past another techy move at the 3rd bolt (extend the draw after you've done the move) to another good horizontal for pro. After that it’s all bolts as the face gradually steepens and climbing becomes more difficult.  Things really kick in at the 6th bolt. Reach big, crimp, high step and embrace the texture past multiple 5.11+ cruxes broken up by a few tenuous stances. One final bouldery crux at the last bolt gets you to hero jugs just below the belay. If lowering, a 70m rope will get you back to the tree ledge but maybe not to the ground proper.  Watch your ends.

Location

Starts on the right end of the tree ledge 20 feet right of the start for Lakeview and just left of the leaning Tombstone flake.

Protection

A selection of cams in the .1-.75 Camalot range. Originally the first pitch had just 7 bolts. Two have been added by the FA party. All bolts on the first pitch are stainless steel. As of this writing, 3 of 4 bolts on the 2nd pitch need to be replaced.

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