Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
A hidden gem for the RR crack enthusiast. Entirely gear protected, and wonderfully diverse. This route ascends the arching, right-facing corner system just left of Sick for Toys.
P1 (Reach pitch)/ 130ft/ 5.11+
Climb a short section of unprotected 5.10- slab to easy face climbing above (a bypass can be found through scrub oak downhill, but may be loose). Take the right facing corner above to a rest ledge, then follow the right arching flake above (placing high gear in corner) to a small rest at a flexing flake before initiating the crux sequence. Gaston, undercling, and fall into a long reach. After pulling the crux, gently traverse to an anchor station beyond the tree, placing small gear (.1-.4) to protect follower. While the movement here is very easy, falling prior to placement would be a bad idea. No big gear (#4-5) is needed on this pitch. The anchor station at the end preserves gear for pitch two.
P1 (Variation)/ 70ft/ 5.9
Doable, but not classic... Leave packs below direct start, then continue scrambling up the approach gully until you can access the high ledge system to climber’s left. Gear is available if pitching this section out. Walk across slab to main wall, building belay below corner, or using rap anchors uphill. Climb up a short blocky corner, then stem and face climb up to a ledge system below the large corner system above. Somewhat mundane, but reasonable. End as for direct start.
P2 (Womb pitch)/ 130ft/ 5.10
Chimney up to a constriction (gear at the back protects this section). Bypass the constriction by swinging wide, or be the first to free “the corset”, continuing up to a ledge with a large bush. Get over your fear of tunnels and go through the cave, continuing up to large alcove in cave below obvious pinch point. Small gear available throughout. Unique three-dimensional chimney climbing. Gear belay.
P3 (Tooth pitch)/ 60ft/ 5.11
Exit cave, using 4 and 5 to protect funky sequence into body-sized pod above. Consider back-cleaning 4 if possible. Follow beautiful arching hand crack in corner, passing a protruding block (the tooth) before a hanging belay (rap anchors). Physical and rewarding crack climbing.
Double-rope rap, twice. Second station is downhill (unprotected walk) at a flat spot in the slab. As this is an angling rappel, set yourself up to pull the downhill strand to minimize rope issues.
Approach as for Sick for Toys. Scramble up to the first bolt of that route, but then cut left and follow a bushy ledge system to the base of the main wall. Scramble up easy 4th until a nice ledge is reached below the direct start. Continue scrambling upwards if doing the easier variation.
Doubles .2-3, singles 4-5, no nuts
Direct start: supplement with extra .1-.4 (3x in this range)
Runners (10x). Bring at least one double-length.
Two ropes for descent.
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The biggest issue is for the follower on the first pitch: If the follower blows the crux, and the worthless post-crux gear rips (a very real possibility - finger-sized cams behind a very thin/hollow flake) the follower is looking at a massive pendulum and almost certain injury. In fact, the leader could suffer a similar violent end if the very loose post-crux blocks (before the gear) were to break unexpectedly, sending the leader back into the corner from 15-20' away. On the one hand it's kinda cool that there are no pro bolts on this entire route, but I think the route suffers overall as a result... And there are already belay/rappel anchors, so...
On that note, rapping this route is a bit of a shit show: Horizontally placed Fixe single-ring hangers = twisted ropes. Twisted ropes + long rappels + highly featured terrain = stuck ropes. One more rap anchor would allow descent with a single 70 and minimize this needless drama.
Lastly, a word of warning: While the “tooth” is a wild feature, it is also a widow-maker. You pretty much have to commit to it, and indeed protect behind it, and although it makes for a memorable finish, I wonder if it will kill someone some day - hopefully it's keyed in there! Apr 27, 2020
805
Also, before climbing this route (or any other route in RR) please visit the Wet Rock Police website to determine most recent precipitation. It's a free and invaluable tool. ...If the dirt is damp, exercise that restraint muscle.
EDIT: After recently revisiting this route, I have to disagree with Josh's assessment of P1. Several solid placements (.1-.4) are found shortly after exiting the crux, offering protection to the follower. Falling post-crux and prior to placement would be unlikely (5ft of 5.7ish), ...but consequential. The route description above reflects this. Having the stronger climber follow this pitch would add insurance if concerned. Or do the alternative start.
The loose blocks at the end of P1 are no longer present, and the "tooth" block at the end of P3 is unnerving... but solid.
This route is more comparable to an outing at Challenger Wall than it is to the popular trade routes down canyon. Exercise caution and enjoy. Oct 5, 2020