In Absentia

A hidden gem for the RR crack enthusiast. Entirely gear protected, and wonderfully diverse. This route ascends the arching, right-facing corner system just left of Sick for Toys.

P1 (Reach pitch)/ 130ft/ 5.11+ 

Climb a short section of unprotected 5.10- slab to easy face climbing above (a bypass can be found through scrub oak downhill, but may be loose). Take the right facing corner above to a rest ledge, then follow the right arching flake above (placing high gear in corner) to a small rest at a flexing flake before initiating the crux sequence. Gaston, undercling, and fall into a long reach. After pulling the crux, gently traverse to an anchor station beyond the tree, placing small gear (.1-.4) to protect follower. While the movement here is very easy, falling prior to placement would be a bad idea. No big gear (#4-5) is needed on this pitch. The anchor station at the end preserves gear for pitch two.

P1 (Variation)/ 70ft/ 5.9

Doable, but not classic... Leave packs below direct start, then continue scrambling up the approach gully until you can access the high ledge system to climber’s left. Gear is available if pitching this section out. Walk across slab to main wall, building belay below corner, or using rap anchors uphill. Climb up a short blocky corner, then stem and face climb up to a ledge system below the large corner system above. Somewhat mundane, but reasonable. End as for direct start.

P2 (Womb pitch)/ 130ft/ 5.10

Chimney up to a constriction (gear at the back protects this section). Bypass the constriction by swinging wide, or be the first to free “the corset”, continuing up to a ledge with a large bush. Get over your fear of tunnels and go through the cave, continuing up to large alcove in cave below obvious pinch point. Small gear available throughout. Unique three-dimensional chimney climbing. Gear belay.

P3 (Tooth pitch)/ 60ft/ 5.11

Exit cave, using 4 and 5 to protect funky sequence into body-sized pod above. Consider back-cleaning 4 if possible. Follow beautiful arching hand crack in corner, passing a protruding block (the tooth) before a hanging belay (rap anchors). Physical and rewarding crack climbing.

Double-rope rap, twice. Second station is downhill (unprotected walk) at a flat spot in the slab. As this is an angling rappel, set yourself up to pull the downhill strand to minimize rope issues.

Approach as for Sick for Toys. Scramble up to the first bolt of that route, but then cut left and follow a bushy ledge system to the base of the main wall. Scramble up easy 4th until a nice ledge is reached below the direct start. Continue scrambling upwards if doing the easier variation.

Doubles .2-3, singles 4-5, no nuts 

Direct start: supplement with extra .1-.4 (3x in this range)

Runners (10x). Bring at least one double-length.

Two ropes for descent.