The Yellow Brick Road (206)

Start near the base of an obvious big tree on a ledge (see photo). Follow grooves and crack/corner systems for 6 pitches (trending leftwards after the 3rd pitch) until the wall steepens. Follow steep groves/corners for a pitch to a bolt ladder. The bolt ladder goes free at 11c after an initial steep 7m wall section. The next pitch (the 8th) is the crux. Follow a ramp and right facing corner (10d). The next 4 pitches follow crack and corner systems (10b) with a good bivy ledge at the end of pitch 10. Exit left after pitch 13 on easy 3rd/4th class ledges (exposed) into Guaranteed Rugged.

Note, the belays on top of pitch 10 and 12 are a single bolt + gear. It can trick you to seem like protection bolts. Gear can be found in limestone pods around the single bolts to build an anchor. Make sure you don't climb past the single bolt belays and run out of rope.

Once you traverse left into Guaranteed Rugged, follow fun bolted pitches to the summit. Note, the original Yellow Brick Road finished up a trad crack on the left of a tree at the base of the last pitch. Alternatively, climb the fun bolted 5.8 last pitch of Guaranteed Rugged. 

Pitches:

Approach ledges: from the top of the scree cone, a 3rd class ramp leads up to an obvious big tree (see photo) with cord and a sling.

P1: 5.9, 2 bolts + gear. Climb easily up left into shallow groove with pockets. Place high gear then climb up past 2 bolts to access a right leaning crack feature. 2 bolt belay on slab at base of steeper wall (50m). 

P2: 10a/b, pin + bolt + gear. Climb the steep wall up good pockets to a pin then diagonal up right past a bolt to a crack/groove. 2 bolt belay on big ledge (50m).

P3: 5.8, bolt + gear. Start up the chossy looking crack/corner right of the belay to a single bolt at the base of an offwidth section. A 10m offwidth section takes you up to an old bolt belay station. Pass this first station, continuing to a new shiny 2 bolt belay (45m).

P4: 5.6, all gear. Climb the super chossy corner. Loose but easy. Try not to pull on anything. 2 bolt belay on flat ledge (45m).

P5: 4th/5th, 3 bolts. Traverse hard left on ledge to a ramp. Follow it up diagonal left to 2 bolt anchor (45m). 

P6: 5.9, 3 bolts + gear. Stay on the low ramp, moving diagonally up left past slabby moves. 2 bolt belay up left (40m).

P7: 10c, 9 bolts. Undercling up to the corner, climbing the bulge above to a ledge. Traverse left into a shallow groove. There was/is a short fixed rope. 2 bolt belay left (25m) 

Note: bolts out right are for rappelling.

P8: A0 (12b free?), 12 bolts? Up the bolt ladder pulling on draws to a cave belay. A free variation (12b) apparently exists – likely to the side somewhere or the holds broke? 2 bolt anchor (15m).

P9: 11b, 8 bolts? Steep face climbing diagonal up left. Great climbing on good rock! 2 bolt anchor (25m).

Can link pitches 8+9

P10: 10d, 7 botls + gear. Face climb up left following a ramp feature to a right facing corner. Steep climbing past a bolt leads to the belay. 2 bolt anchor (45m).

P11: 5.9, bolt + gear. Climb up into a left arching crack past a bolt to a ledge. From the left side of the ledge, climb up rightward to a tree. Up a chossy corner from here to another ledge, then left up into a shallow bowl feature. 1 bolt + gear belay (40m).

P12: 5.8, bolt + gear. Find a bolt out right then climb straight up a corner above. Zig-zag across ledges finding your way up to the belay (10ft below bivi ledge) 2 bolt anchor (40m).

P13: 10c, 6 bolts + gear. Look high right’ish to find shiny bolts leading into a shallow corner feature. Climb slightly rightward up to first bolt (runout face climbing). Up the shallow corner to easier ledges. Belay located 10m above shallow corner feature. Single bolt belay + gear (45m).

P14: 5.6, gear. Hard left on ramp ~20m then up a slabby corner and slab to belay below dirt ledge. 2 bolt anchor (50m).

P15: 3rd/4th, natural anchors. Traverse treed ledges left for a full rope length. Tree anchor (50m).

P16: 4th, natural anchors + gear. Drop down left to lower ledge system. Gear anchor (15m).

P17: 4th/5th, bolts + gear. Traverse to left edge of headwall. Low 5th moves lead up onto ridge into Guaranteed Rugged. Follow bolts (5.3) up ridge to belay. 2 bolt anchor (60m).

P18: 5.3, 4 bolts. Easy, fun climbing up ridge to a tree at base of final steeper pitch. 2 bolt anchor (33m).

P19: 5.9, 8 bolts. Face climbing up the final steep pitch with great holds and incredible exposure! 2 bolts anchor (25m).

Note: original finish out left, follows a trad crack/corner.

Use the same pull-out to park as for Guaranteed Rugged 10c. Take the same trail for Guaranteed Rugged weaving up through the grassy hillside to the base of the cliff. Where the trail turns right, traversing over to the start of Guaranteed Rugged, continue straight up, scrambling through 3rd/4th horizontal ledges. A vague trail exists with old flagging leading you up diagonally right to an easy ledge. 

Traverse hard right on the ledge, past the base of pitch 4 on Guaranteed Rugged (bolts heading up the wall). Just past here, Scramble up 4th steep class terrain over ledges to the massive scree terrace above the Lower Wall. Continue up to the base of the Upper Wall then continue climbers right along the wall. The climb starts at that highest scree cone at the base of the Upper Wall. Look for the obvious large tree in the photo that marks the start.

Its worth investigating the approach before committing to the climb. Its easy to get lost on the approach. Its complicated and technical, and not well traveled or marked. Once you have the approach wired, get a very early start and crank-off the route. 

Single rack to 3" and nuts (double mid-range), 12 draws + 60m rope (2 ropes if you might bail). Many pitches are mixed and some are fully bolted. Belays are mostly 2 bolts except pitch 10 and 12 are single bolt + gear.