All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Cariboo > Marble Canyon > Marble Canyon Rock > Upper Headwall

The Yellow Brick Road (206)

Name: The Yellow Brick Road (206)
Rating: 3.1

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British A0 PG13

Routes in Upper Headwall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Donner Route (204), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Guaranteed Rugged S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	None But The Brave (205) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Pavilion Edge (203) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Trivial Pursuit Jr. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Yellow Brick Road (206), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 PG13

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 1500 ft (455 m), 13 pitches
FA:	1994
Page Views:	2,992 total · 47/month
Shared By:	oldgoat on Feb 7, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Overnight Parking/Camping Details

There have been reports of concerns of people parking overnight or camping on the gravel roadside pullouts along Highway 99. Please be aware that there is no overnight parking or camping allowed at these areas. Being an isolated area, there are a limited number of sites available at the only nearby campground, which likely has contributed to this. If you’re sleeping in your vehicle, the wonderful park operator, Birgit (pronounced: Beer-get), is happy to accommodate more people overnight in the day-use lots for the standard camping fee.

The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.

Description

Start near the base of an obvious big tree on a ledge (see photo). Follow grooves and crack/corner systems for 6 pitches (trending leftwards after the 3rd pitch) until the wall steepens. Follow steep groves/corners for a pitch to a bolt ladder. The bolt ladder goes free at 11c after an initial steep 7m wall section. The next pitch (the 8th) is the crux. Follow a ramp and right facing corner (10d). The next 4 pitches follow crack and corner systems (10b) with a good bivy ledge at the end of pitch 10. Exit left after pitch 13 to Pavilion Edge.

Near the top of the route (before traversing left to Pavillion Edge) caution a couple of belays are a single bolt and gear. It can trick you and seem like protection bolts. Gear can be found in limestone pods around the single bolts to build a redundant anchor. Do not take Pavilion Edge lightly - it's not over. Scramble exposed 4th class around a corner to Pavilion Edge then climb 4th/low 5th for a ways to where the wall goes vertical. I chose a weakness on the right and climbed a full 55m pitch 5.8 directly to the summit. The yellow limestone was compact with little protection available. I've heard of climbers going left here too.

Location

Park in a roadside pullout just west of the Lower Wall. Follow a rough, faint climbers trail up through the steep grassy slope toward a weakness just right of the Great Gully and left of the Lower Wall. Scramble up 3rd/4th class to horizontal ledges and pick up old flagging leading climbers right. Scramble up 4th class terrain over ledges to the massive scree terrace above the Lower Wall. Continue up to the base of the Upper Wall then continue climbers right along the wall. This climb starts at that highest scree cone at the base of the Upper Wall. Look for the obvious large tree in the photo that marks the start.

Its worth investigating the approach before committing to the climb. Its easy to get lost on the approach. Its complicated and technical, and not well traveled or marked. Once you have the approach wired, get a very early start and crank-off the route.