Type: Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA: NB, BE
Page Views: 832 total · 26/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 6, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

This route climbs the steep face between Captain Fist and Too Much Crack on amazing edges and patina holds.

Pitch 1. Climb easy rock past some optional gear to the small roof at ~ 20'. Clip the bolt above and pull the (5.11 crux) roof using a high left foot and some magic (read, hard one-leg press) to gain the face above. Climb the face past bolts, where you need them, and a couple easy runouts to a horizontal crack at ~ 100'. This section is in the 5.10 range. From here, continue up the crack/seam which jogs right a bit before turning vertical. Follow it up, and finish via multiple variations. The easiest is to step back left and into the wide crack finish of "Captain Fist". It would be prudent to belay at the ledge or somewhere similar within earshot of your follower because of the low crux (followers should also consider leaving the bolt clipped through the crux to mitigate swing potential, duh).

The runouts are easy, but be prepared to climb a little between bolts. If you're comfort zone is BC or CCC-type bolt spacing, then you're not gonna like this route, but if you're a competent S. Platte climber, then you should feel right at home.

Pitch 2 is just a short jaunt to the summit via several easy options.

The FA style for anyone concerned: the route was done ground up with all but one bolt placed from stances. For that one, only partial aid was used -- a sub-bodyweight Birdbeak for a "handhold" while drilling.

Location

It is between Captain Fist and Too Much Crack.

Protection

6 bolts and a light rack. Gear varies depending upon the finish and could go up to a #3 Camalot.

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