Type: | Sport |
FA: | Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; FA after the flake came off: Joe Faust Mar 2022 |
Page Views: | 608 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Mike Engle on Jan 24, 2020 |
Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
This winter (2022), the major body-sized flake about 2/3's up the route came off while someone was climbing it! (see details in the route comments section below) Fortunately, no one was hurt.
This changed the climb from a 5.9- to something a little harder. I'm going to call it 5.10. It might be 10- if you're tall but more like 10+ if you're short. If you're short and have sausage fingers it's probably like a V2 boulder problem. With the missing flake, the bolt that protected this section had to be moved down about a foot. Additionally, the corner was cleaned a second time and a loose block was removed.
Following is the new route description.
Move up and right until you can stand under a small two foot roof. Reach over and pull the roof to gain a stance on a sloping shelf. Crimp up a move or two until you can grab blocky good holds. Work slightly left then pull right to a stance at the bottom of shallow right facing corner. Thin tip jams gain a decent edge. A big move gains a decent side ledge below the last two closely space bolts. Work up an right under a roof and move slightly left and up on big holds to the anchors.
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