Type: Sport
FA: Bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, & Mike Engle; FA after the flake came off: Joe Faust Mar 2022
Page Views: 608 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jan 24, 2020
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This winter (2022), the major body-sized flake about 2/3's up the route came off while someone was climbing it! (see details in the route comments section below) Fortunately, no one was hurt.  

This changed the climb from a 5.9- to something a little harder.  I'm going to call it 5.10.  It might be 10- if you're tall but more like 10+ if you're short.  If you're short and have sausage fingers it's probably like a V2 boulder problem.   With the missing flake, the bolt that protected this section had to be moved down about a foot.  Additionally, the corner was cleaned a second time and a loose block was removed.

Following is the new route description.

Move up and right until you can stand under a small two foot roof.  Reach over and pull the roof to gain a stance on a sloping shelf.  Crimp up a move or two until you can grab blocky good holds. Work slightly left then pull right to a stance at the bottom of shallow right facing corner.  Thin tip jams gain a decent edge.  A big move gains a decent side ledge below the last two closely space bolts.  Work up an right under a roof and move slightly left and up on big holds to the anchors.