Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, 460 ft (139 m), 3 pitches
FA: Luc Gallant, Michel Martin and Marty Levesque
Page Views: 401 total · 9/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Jan 22, 2020
Admins: Greg Hughes, Will Bland

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 - Climb a steep snow gully that leads up and right for 30 meters to a steep pillar of ice. Climb the 20 meter pillar and belay off rock gear on the left hand side. WI4+ 60 meters
Pitch 2 - Continue up the gully at first on snow then ice which will steepen. Stop and belay off ice screws in a cave below a skinny, vertical pillar. WI4+ M4 30 meters
PItch 3 - Step up on an ice mushroom to reach the pillar. Climb the pillar and or stem your way up the narrow chimney for about 25 meters where you will reach a snow gully. Climb the snow gully to the top of the cliff and belay off small trees. WI5+ M4 55 meters

Location Suggest change

This is the next major featured gully south of ETD approximately 200 meters away. 

Protection Suggest change

A rack of screws, small rock rack and a few pins.

History Suggest change

Max Fisher and Luc Gallant made the first attempt on this in 2017 climbing all the way to the crux 3 pitch. They were thwarted by a massive ice umbrella that proved impossible to climb through or around. In December of 2018 Max and Luc returned with Michel Martin to give it another go. They climbed almost half of the route before deciding to bail due to poor ice conditions. On the descent, very near the bottom Michel took a short fall while trying to retrieve the rope. He unfortunately broke his foot/ankle quite badly when he hit the ground. Despite the broken foot but with the help of Max and Luc, Michel was able to get off the beach and back to the car just in time as the tide was fast approaching. Michel needed two surgeries and 6 months to recover from his injury but was determined to climb again. A little more than 13 months from the day of the accident Michel returned with Luc and Marty Levesque to try once again to climb this line. This time they were successful and were happy to find good ice, challenging climbing and a route worth the effort. Congrats to Michel on his triumphant return.