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Islands of Stability (open project)
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Snort Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blow Before Throws S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Butthole Bonanza T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Machete T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Forget Jaws T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Islands of Stability (open project) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Limb Saw T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sand Snorkeling S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | This could be you! (Up to the 2nd bolt was Kole, Jake, and Dustin in 2004) |
| Page Views: | 515 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kole DeCou on Jan 16, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Unfinished project open to anyone willing to continue up to the ledge hand-drilling from stances. Bring a hand drill and a bolt-- there should be 1 more stance after the crux. I just ask that you don't change the name or rap-bolt.
Fun and exciting face climbing up an arete on the right side of the Snort Wall, left of a dirty chimney.
The first 2 bolts I ever drilled were on this climb, hand-drilled from calf-burning stances. The second has been tested dozens of times up to 190 lbs, so it must be good. There is a bit of gear between the bolts. Up to the high point there are 2 5.10a-ish cruxes. Both come a long ways above your gear (see picture). At the 2nd bolt, there is a hard 10 feet of climbing. This marks the current high point.
I went back with Jake a few years ago to have another go at it and after giving up on doing it in good style we climbed the chimney to put in a TR anchor with the hopes of head-pointing it. We managed to TR it at around 12- or 12, but neither of us were up to the lead. If anyone is into this sort of fun, it's a worthy climb.
The second pitch also looks good, and would be a similar style.
Fun and exciting face climbing up an arete on the right side of the Snort Wall, left of a dirty chimney.
The first 2 bolts I ever drilled were on this climb, hand-drilled from calf-burning stances. The second has been tested dozens of times up to 190 lbs, so it must be good. There is a bit of gear between the bolts. Up to the high point there are 2 5.10a-ish cruxes. Both come a long ways above your gear (see picture). At the 2nd bolt, there is a hard 10 feet of climbing. This marks the current high point.
I went back with Jake a few years ago to have another go at it and after giving up on doing it in good style we climbed the chimney to put in a TR anchor with the hopes of head-pointing it. We managed to TR it at around 12- or 12, but neither of us were up to the lead. If anyone is into this sort of fun, it's a worthy climb.
The second pitch also looks good, and would be a similar style.
Location
On the far right side of the Snort Wall, on the way to the Coke Wall, you'll come to a big chimney. Stop there and look up the low-angle arete on the left side of the chimney. Don't be fooled by the angle, it's harder than it looks. There should be a couple of lonely bolts up there if you look hard enough.
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