Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Boyce-Willis FRA July 2018
Page Views: 23 total · 23/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Jan 15, 2020
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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This is a dubious ridge best suited for the anti-social alpine hermit. Rock is rarely good, routefinding is constant, gear is scarce and logistics complex. That being said, it provides some of the most excellent views in the cascades, with forbidden and J-Berg taunting you. Expect a remarkable journey, not remarkable climbing. Detailed descriptions will likely confuse more than aid. Pitch count will vary with how much you solo. I think we were roped for a half dozen or so pitches. Follow your nose and stay close to the ridge crest. Memory fails me but expect 3-5 rappels en route to navigate the many gendarmes. We threaded our rope directly through 5-6mm cord, bring tat and rings if you so desire. Descend the standard rappel route down the south face.


We started from the base of sharkfin. From here we traversed snow to the broad start of the ridge. Its hard to say exactly where you would consider the "Start" to be, but travel on the brilliant silver rock and trend towards the ridge crest. Follow whatever looks appealing mostly south of the ridgecrest or on it. We traversed a 1000' or so of low fifth class before hitting a gendarme and roping up. 


Half rack or so.