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One Arm Bandit

WI5, Trad, Ice, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Full route FA unknown. Stan Price started it and ended hanging from one arm
Wyoming > Cody > S Fork Shoshone… > 1. S Facing/N Side > 8. Hawkeye Ranch Area

Description

An exaggeratedly “heinous” approach (hour or so with scree in the last third) leads to a pitch of WI3 into a narrowing chimney. Pass a body-width section of chimney of varying difficulty, depending on how much ice, to a large ledge with bolts on the right wall. Climb the possibly overhanging pillar at WI5 to the next set of bolts. Lower angle ice continues above this for a couple hundred feet.

Pick a calm day to do this as wind blows right up the route and you probably don’t like lacerating your corneas with ice chips and snow...

Location

Ascend the gully just left of Main Vein. Descend crossing skiers right a couple hundred feet below the start of the route to a scree field and boot ski heaven. 

Protection

Screws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

not fully developed— mixed
[Hide Photo] not fully developed— mixed
Pitch 3 pillar on Jan 13, 2020
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3 pillar on Jan 13, 2020

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  WI5
[Hide Comment] This is not 5 pitches it is only 3. There is a little bit of easy solo ice then a long pitch of WI3 brings you to the base of the pillar. Pitch 2 is the crux and then pitch 3 is 50m+ of rolling WI3. Feb 16, 2024