Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Snow, 2250 ft, Grade II|
|Page Views:||24 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Jan 12, 2020|
In the standard climbing season (November to April), the ascent to glacier can be had on pure rock with no snow or ice. Gain the glacier at its highest point which should provide fairly flat travel across the snow to the rocky summit. Climb the west side of the summit.
Take care with loose rock both on the approach to the glacier and the final summit block.
While full ice/snow gear may be prudent, the route can be done with minimal alpine gear. The snow tends to be fairly soft and low angle, especially if the glacier is gained at the highest junction with the rock.
Guided groups normally take a rope and some gear to belay clients. A savvy alpinist may avoid such accouterments but should conditions or route finding provide a challenge, not much margin would exist for a safe climb.
An early start is prudent as the weather can be poor (to very poor) especially leading into the afternoon. Plan on being back in camp before lunch.
The glacier polished rock is beautiful, but, is slick and could be frightening if wet. Sticky approach shoes appreciated.