Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, 2250 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 24 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 12, 2020
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

The route above Laguna El Suero provides expedient access to the summit plateau. Go around the lake and ascend the path of least resistance up gorgeous, blood colored glacially polished rock. Begin by following the stream course. Trend up and left, following slanting ramps. Take care on the slick rock. Aim for the upper end of the ridge to the left. Follow trail when possible and blocky low anchor rock.

In the standard climbing season (November to April), the ascent to glacier can be had on pure rock with no snow or ice. Gain the glacier at its highest point which should provide fairly flat travel across the snow to the rocky summit. Climb the west side of the summit.

Take care with loose rock both on the approach to the glacier and the final summit block.

While full ice/snow gear may be prudent, the route can be done with minimal alpine gear. The snow tends to be fairly soft and low angle, especially if the glacier is gained at the highest junction with the rock.

Guided groups normally take a rope and some gear to belay clients. A savvy alpinist may avoid such accouterments but should conditions or route finding provide a challenge, not much margin would exist for a safe climb.

An early start is prudent as the weather can be poor (to very poor) especially leading into the afternoon. Plan on being back in camp before lunch.

Location

The SW aspect above Laguna El Suero.  Go around the right side of the lake and aim for the stream coming down from the snowfields above.  Follow that and jog mostly left to keep the grade reasonable.

The glacier polished rock is beautiful, but, is slick and could be frightening if wet.  Sticky approach shoes appreciated.

Protection

Depending on appetite for risk, rope, snow/ice gear and a smattering of rock gear might prove useful for the less confident.

Photos

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