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Heelies Revival

V4-5, Boulder, 7 ft (2 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Unknown
Connecticut > CT Bouldering > Mansfield Grove Boulder

Description

Start with hands matched and hanging with feet out left. Go straight up from there on sloper holds, crux is the topout.

Location

The route starts to the left of Kat Tut, on the obvious lower hold matched. It's on the east face of the boulder and goes straight up

Protection

1 pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shows entire route direction and start
[Hide Photo] Shows entire route direction and start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Cat
Hell
[Hide Comment] So..... glad this boulder gets some love, but before you grade this 4-5, try the problems on the prow for comparison. Starting farther left doesn’t really enhance the problem, you end up cutting right, left and wiggling a lot to climb straight up.. this is a contrivance and maybe two stars.

Also as I stated before, this block was climbed in the 80’s-90’s (according to Rick Torre) Jan 12, 2020
Ryan Hanlon
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] It only uses the start of the other one. I recommend giving it a whirl because staying left keeps you honest, there's a tricky foot sequence and very small variations that makes for workable moves. I had a very fun beta to say the least. Ran out of time to try those since I found this unworked section but will soon Jan 12, 2020
M Cat
Hell
[Hide Comment] I have tried climbing straight up from the start of Kat tut, as well as way further left traverse (per rick’s comments). The issue is the far right holds are super juggy and pretty much within reach as soon as you start below the small roof (where you indicated the start). Yes, it’s weirder, harder, more balancey? to climb straight up. It’s also contrived and less fun than the surrounding natural lines.

Honestly I’ve tried to come up with more problems every time I visit this thing, it’s bordering on gym style, with a ton of holds and variations..

Edit: I guess my feelings are, these variations deserve a lower quality rating compared to the natural lines. But I’ve scoped out a link up of Kat tut and Shoulda, that I’m psyched on, so more power to ya. Jan 12, 2020
Ryan Hanlon
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] Per meow's comment/feeling, I'm more than willing to update the grade I'd just like to wait on more feedback from people climbing the route that's all Jan 13, 2020