Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 230 ft (70 m)
FA: Todd Cozzens & Dwayne Monte 92/93 season
Page Views: 629 total · 29/month
Shared By: J J on Jan 11, 2020
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Although Horse Tail isn't a regularly forming route, it can be in condition anywhere from WI4+ on the far right up to a WI6 pillar on the left when in (line of FA).  The usual left pillar provides steep, sustained technical climbing above a large cone, and the right side of the Falls can form as a curtain at a much easier grade.  That being said, when not "in" on the right, it can also provide technical WI5 climbing as well. This is a spectacular pitch on a very esthetic route seen from the valley below.  

Bonus, sometimes the two low angled gullies just right of the route will have ice in it and offer more climbing in the WI3 range. 


Horse Tail Falls is located above the Flying H Ranch at the end of the the Hunter Creek road on the South side of the River.  Park at the Boulder Basin Trailhead-there is a lovely shitter there for your early am needs, and multiple places to tie up your horses if you are into that sort of thing.

From here, look up, if you can't see the route, then it must be snowing.  Follow the trail up and right, through the gate (leave the gate the way you found it) and continue up the trail for another switchback or two.  Cut right, across one or two deep gullies (depending on your line) to the right side of the drainage.  Head up the right side of the drainage through downed timber, then up the drainage itself whenever you feel the need to enter it.  The climb is 45min-1 hour from the truck depending on conditions. 


Screws. Make a NoThread/ZeroThread to rap the route with a pair of 70 M ropes.