Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft (15 m)|
|FA:||Leland Windham, Frank Bush; 2011|
|Page Views:||451 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Gosh Glance on Jan 9, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
I prefer to lead it as a trad route, where it holds the same grade- maybe a tad harder (.10a?) in one section about 2/3 of the way up, but only if you're sticking entirely to jams. The reason for this being it requires 3 straight finger jams way over your head, one on top of another, with semi-awkward feet (but not awkward if you escape the crack and grab the crimp).
In general, the rock is pretty solid- very solid by Vantage's standards. A #0.2 placement is available about parallel with the (low!) first bolt, though it's kind of hard to find. It won't protect you from decking for very long, but you won't go rolling down the hill... From there, I use doubles and sometimes triples of #0.3 & #0.4 in the finger crack, depending on how much I want to sew it up. Supplement with stoppers, as needed. At the top, there's an OW section that I usually protect with a #0.75 at the bottom, but I once plugged a #1. I think a #3 or #4 would work in that same area, but I've never tried it. The 3' below the chains is kinda chossy, so be careful.
Gets full sun in the summer beginning late morning, and it's hot.