Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Leland Windham, Frank Bush; 2011
Page Views: 451 total · 18/month
Shared By: Gosh Glance on Jan 9, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Sport route with good movement and bolts where you'd want them. The route to the chains follows a crack- mostly fingers with some hands/offwidth near the top. There are plenty of face holds and solid feet the whole way up.

I prefer to lead it as a trad route, where it holds the same grade- maybe a tad harder (.10a?) in one section about 2/3 of the way up, but only if you're sticking entirely to jams. The reason for this being it requires 3 straight finger jams way over your head, one on top of another, with semi-awkward feet (but not awkward if you escape the crack and grab the crimp).

In general, the rock is pretty solid- very solid by Vantage's standards. A #0.2 placement is available about parallel with the (low!) first bolt, though it's kind of hard to find. It won't protect you from decking for very long, but you won't go rolling down the hill... From there, I use doubles and sometimes triples of #0.3 & #0.4 in the finger crack, depending on how much I want to sew it up. Supplement with stoppers, as needed. At the top, there's an OW section that I usually protect with a #0.75 at the bottom, but I once plugged a #1. I think a #3 or #4 would work in that same area, but I've never tried it. The 3' below the chains is kinda chossy, so be careful.

Gets full sun in the summer beginning late morning, and it's hot.

Location

Around the corner (climber's right/east) from Far Point Station, the start is behind a detached block. It's the only other bolted route on the Shatter Columns wall.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

Protection

6 bolts + chain anchor (no permadraws).

Trad: #0.2 - #3 Camalot, doubles of #0.3 & #0.4 + stoppers. Leave the #2 cam, you won't use it.

Photos

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