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Violator
5.10+,
Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.9 from 34
votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas
> North-Central A…
> Buffalo River R…
> Steel Creek - U…
> Pirate's Cove
Description
This route hosts some of the sickest and most exposed arete climbing in the entire Midwest. P1, 80'. Climbs a dihedral system with a few challenging moves surmounting a bulge after the first 20'. The second pitch begins with some small crimps moving up to a delicate traverse left to the bottom of the arete. Climb up the dihedral for several feet then hand traverse a rail to massive holds on the arete itself. A good rest can be had on the rail once you're poised on the arete, make sure to look down and enjoy! Good grips follow the arete until a mantel over and onto the slab above at the last bolt.
Location
This route follows a line of bolts heading up a dihedral on the right side of the large detached flake.
[Hide Photo] Boring informational pic alert** These are the ends of a 70m rope hanging straight down from the anchors. If you do it in one pitch or rappel from the top, knot your ends!
[Hide Comment] Incredible. The ideal situation to minimize rope drag would be to put long draws on bolts 5 and 8, plus the last two bolts before, and the first bolt on, the dihedral. Amazing, huge route.
Dec 22, 2020
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