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Violator

5.10+, Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Buffalo River R… > Steel Creek - U… > Pirate's Cove

Description

This route hosts some of the sickest and most exposed arete climbing in the entire Midwest. P1, 80'. Climbs a dihedral system with a few challenging moves surmounting a bulge after the first 20'. The second pitch begins with some small crimps moving up to a delicate traverse left to the bottom of the arete. Climb up the dihedral for several feet then hand traverse a rail to massive holds on the arete itself. A good rest can be had on the rail once you're poised on the arete, make sure to look down and enjoy! Good grips follow the arete until a mantel over and onto the slab above at the last bolt. 

Location

This route follows a line of bolts heading up a dihedral on the right side of the large detached flake.

Protection

Bolts. Fixed anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Emily on lead, stepping off the slab onto the arete.
[Hide Photo] Emily on lead, stepping off the slab onto the arete.
Jet Gatewood on P2
[Hide Photo] Jet Gatewood on P2
Corbin Carlisle sending P2
[Hide Photo] Corbin Carlisle sending P2
Climber on the Violator arete
[Hide Photo] Climber on the Violator arete
Photo by: Chase Webb
[Hide Photo] Photo by: Chase Webb
P2 arete.
[Hide Photo] P2 arete.
Beginning of the second pitch with some slabby moves off the deck!
[Hide Photo] Beginning of the second pitch with some slabby moves off the deck!
Corbin Carlisle cutting feet on P2
[Hide Photo] Corbin Carlisle cutting feet on P2
Boring informational pic alert** These are the ends of a 70m rope hanging straight down from the anchors. If you do it in one pitch or rappel from the top, knot your ends!
[Hide Photo] Boring informational pic alert** These are the ends of a 70m rope hanging straight down from the anchors. If you do it in one pitch or rappel from the top, knot your ends!
Tyler W posted
[Hide Photo] Tyler W posted

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wilson McKay
Denver, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Cool movements, beautiful scenery, and incredible exposure. This route has it all! May 22, 2020
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
 
[Hide Comment] Incredible. The ideal situation to minimize rope drag would be to put long draws on bolts 5 and 8, plus the last two bolts before, and the first bolt on, the dihedral. Amazing, huge route. Dec 22, 2020
Big Ears
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Do it as 1 pitch for maximum enjoyment. This is as fun as clipping bolts gets! Oct 9, 2022
Diego B
Orange, Tx
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! Get ready for some exposure therapy! Aug 5, 2023