All Locations > International > Europe > France > Calanques > Calanque de Mor… > Parc Des Baumettes > Terre du Milieu

Pilier Direct

Name: Pilier Direct
Rating: 2.0

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Terre du Milieu

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chattanooga S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	L'Isengard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	La Lothlorien S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Le Mordor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pilier Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Vancouver S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	120 total · 9/month
Shared By:	J Meagher on Jan 4, 2020
Admins:	Euan Cameron, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Summer closures Details

See the following site for restriction during the summer: calanques13.com/acces-calan…

Description

Begin with easy climbing up the slab until you reach a black tufa rib. About 10 feet higher, an obvious jug to the right provides a welcome rest before the steeper wall above. Fire through the fun bulge (crux) on long moves between pockets and pinches. The difficulty lessens in the last few feet. Given 7a+ in the French scale. The rock is a bit dirty in some spots, but still a very enjoyable climb.

Location

At the right side of the crag, there is a vague cave of sorts where the rock is slightly overhanging near the top. There are three routes in this cave. Pilier Direct is the middle of these three lines and follows a wide patch of black rock.