Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2500 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 41 total · 41/month
Shared By: Kyle Tarry on Dec 29, 2019
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

This direct line begins at 7400 feet and climbs varied terrain to the north summit shoulder at ~9800 ft.  It is possibly the best line on the mountain, and one of the better alpine ice and mixed routes in the state.  The route is commonly considered to have a lower portion and an upper portion with the upper portion described in the Oregon High guidebook.  This route is best climbed in proper winter conditions, when cold temps and ample freeze-thaw result in significant water ice buildup.

Begin with a short steep ice pillar directly at the toe of the buttress (likely ice crux). If this pitch is not in, various snow ramps provide an alternative entrance.  Follow the path of least resistance up and right around a large buttress, then continue up and slightly left to get onto the ridge crest.  The angle eases here for several hundred meters of easy scrambling.  When the ridge narrows, stay on top and climb directly over the prominent gendarme to the second tower, which is above the notch at around 8700 ft.  Rappel into the notch (60m should work).  This is where the upper portion of the route begins and can be accessed via a snow ramp from the right.

From the notch, walk up to the base of an obvious ice/mixed gully above.  Follow this gully up and slightly left to more open snow slopes, then follow various easy snow, ice, and mixed ramps to steeper more complex terrain above.  Weave through the many small towers connecting ice and mixed couloirs, until you reach the small bench where this route, the Theyer Headwall route, and the 11 o'clock couloir merge, on the NE side of the summit pinnacle.  From here, you can continue onto the summit if desired.

Multiple options exist for the descent, including descending the standard (S. Ridge) route, the SW ridge, or the 11 o'clock couloir.

Location

Huge obvious buttress pointing due east off the summit.  Approach from the Pole Creek Trailhead, then follow the Soap Creek drainage to the base of the route.  In winter, the approach is simple and direct on skis.

Protection

Ice screws, single rack of cams, nuts, pitons

Photos

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