Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Chuck Buzzard, J. Turney
Page Views: 793 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 26, 2019
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an exquisite route that deserves more traffic to keep it clean! Now mostly bolt protected (less intimidating), it ascends an obvious, overhanging corner above the Double Dutch ledge. Despite the extra bolt, it remains a bold lead. Best linked with Double Dutch Right.

From the ledge, start up a short right trending crack (pro?) to a minor stance. From this stance, the angle kicks back (don't fall!), and you can slot in a perfect nut before blasting into the hard moves. Get your crimping on as you work through a bouldery sequence to a good hold and your first bolt. The tribulations continue through a series of lunges and a tricky hand-and-foot sequence into an alcove, then up to a detached-but-solid flake hold and a rest at the new bolt. The angle kicks back even more here as the dihedral tightens, with potential for small cam pro. Work your way up into it, clip the last bolt, and make the proud final moves on jugs to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

Center of the Main Wall, top of the "North" (West) trail, right side of the obvious ledge where many routes converge, short orange dihedral pitch to the top of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts, small nuts and cams

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