Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Chuck Buzzard, J. Turney |
Page Views: | 793 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Nate Ball on Dec 26, 2019 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
This is an exquisite route that deserves more traffic to keep it clean! Now mostly bolt protected (less intimidating), it ascends an obvious, overhanging corner above the Double Dutch ledge. Despite the extra bolt, it remains a bold lead. Best linked with Double Dutch Right.
From the ledge, start up a short right trending crack (pro?) to a minor stance. From this stance, the angle kicks back (don't fall!), and you can slot in a perfect nut before blasting into the hard moves. Get your crimping on as you work through a bouldery sequence to a good hold and your first bolt. The tribulations continue through a series of lunges and a tricky hand-and-foot sequence into an alcove, then up to a detached-but-solid flake hold and a rest at the new bolt. The angle kicks back even more here as the dihedral tightens, with potential for small cam pro. Work your way up into it, clip the last bolt, and make the proud final moves on jugs to the anchor.
From the ledge, start up a short right trending crack (pro?) to a minor stance. From this stance, the angle kicks back (don't fall!), and you can slot in a perfect nut before blasting into the hard moves. Get your crimping on as you work through a bouldery sequence to a good hold and your first bolt. The tribulations continue through a series of lunges and a tricky hand-and-foot sequence into an alcove, then up to a detached-but-solid flake hold and a rest at the new bolt. The angle kicks back even more here as the dihedral tightens, with potential for small cam pro. Work your way up into it, clip the last bolt, and make the proud final moves on jugs to the anchor.
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