Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Terry Rader and Dwayne Muetzel, 1972.
Page Views: 455 total · 9/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Dec 26, 2019
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

Scramble uphill along the east side of the Stegosaurus formation until you enter a narrow cleft. Pitch-1: Scramble up the west side of the cleft (east facing slab) onto a wide ledge where you will find a bolt. Follow the ledge left until it ends (5.7).From the end of the ledge climb a short wall straight up (5.9). From the top of the short wall scramble sloping slab into a shallow 5-foot wide cave (5.3) and belay anchors. The shallow cave open is at the base of a large crack. PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.
Pitch-2: From the cave chimney and squeeze up into crack (5.7-5.8) with the next bolt located as you reach up and out of the cave. Once out of the cave climb the crack to the summit of Stegosaur Rock (5.6) placing gear as needed. Being on the east side this route and crack tends to be a little dirty, but very fun.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007 map page 196.

Location Suggest change

Upper east side of Stegosaur Rock.

Protection Suggest change

gear 1 to 4 inches, bolts. Rappel anchor, no chains.

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