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Shell Shocked and Scootch Adrenaline
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in 1 Turtle Rock
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Cracked Turtle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Head Out & Eek Adrenaline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Head Out and Tarturum Epistemology S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Illusions of the Shell S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inner Space S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paradigm Shift S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scarier Turtles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Scary Turtles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shell Shocked and Scootch Adrenaline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tarturum Tree S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Turtle Cosmos S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Turtle Cosmos S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Turtle in Revolution S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Turtle Soup S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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View from Inside, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.2201, -123.56512 |
| FA: | David Tvedt |
| Page Views: | 617 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Dec 17, 2019 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED
Details
Permit sales start June 23rd at 7pm
$100 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
recreation.weyerhaeuser.com…
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.
Description
Pitch-1 (70 feet, 5.13a): Begins up the south arete from the end of the cat-walk with a combination of horizontal roof pulls and a classic arete offering great exposure overlooking the Flournoy Valley almost 2,000 feet below. The first pitch ending at the belay anchors on top the first pitch or Head Out requires an explosive roof-pull followed by difficult arete moves that make this route so challenging. Caution!! If you choose to rappel off this set of chains pay attention as you are no longer directly over the cat-walk where you started from.
Pitch-2 (55 feet, 5.11c): Traverse hard right onto the south arete, following the arete to the top of the "Turtle's Head". This pitch begins with fun easier arete and pocket moves but soon becomes more serious as it moves through overhung and airy crux moves (5.11c). Cruxes maybe height dependent.
Walk-off. Caution!! If you choose to rappel off this set of chains pay attention as you are no longer directly over the cat-walk where you started from. One person has already rappelled off their rope here.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007 topo A page 83.
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