Type: Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches
FA: 1984, J. Sands, J. Zahn and C. Hill.
Page Views: 489 total · 20/month
Shared By: Pernell Tomasi on Dec 16, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

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Putatively one’s first trad, multi-pitch lead could have been Hanging Gardens. It was possibly followed, maybe belatedly by a gripped chafe session on Renaissance Direct. Perhaps not, supposedly one may definitively scamper the opening bolted slab, then smoothly transition left across RD, face climbing past two newer hangers to the easier second P1 crux of the upper Kreuser’s Chimney Direct crossover. A crack there exits left and gains a bonzer horizontal ledge, which takes greater than medium cams for belay (right of The Phantom and Gobs of Knobs). The next pitch above reaches past bolts five and six, where it becomes a dash for safer passage. This likely third mental crux is deciding quickly your best trace. Know the gritty McDowell moxie when ascending here, pro options do exist above, shortly before this 35m second pitch concludes at a prominent horn with two glue-ins. If the opening mount of the P1 slab start and above that goes well, you shouldn’t have any issues with the upper P2 runout.


It’s an endurable and fun escapade for GW, especially as a preparatory climb for the other wall’s more difficult adjuncts. I believe several guidebooks track this climb more left of bolted slab and then lower when crossing KCD and only mention the two second pitch bolts. *Topo overlay is only an interpretation we chose to climb. Clips three and four may be RD's Parental Guidance variation. Also, wasn't sure if the lower bolted slab is start of RD, but It seemed more difficult than the upper P2 5.7 of For Cryin' Out Loud.


Six bolts. Several runners and medium to large cams. Two single line 70m raps from chain anchors of Renaissance Direct.