Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Clay, Karl Nagy, and Ray Frieson, Oct. 1984
Page Views: 306 total · 12/month
Shared By: Luka Bogdanovic on Dec 11, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

Amadeus is a great mixed test piece that forms early and often falls off after the first Chinook.

If the ice is touching down, climb straight up. However generally the first 15 meters are a giant hanging dagger which needs to be circumvented on the right.

P1 (20m): Scramble up a small ramp to a sloping belay ledge with one pin and a good crack to build an anchor. Make a few thin rock moves up slab with sparse protection until you gain a good crack and ledge to traverse left. Make a few moves left onto the rock ledge which gives way to ice where you can build a belay.

P2 (10m): Head straight up some steep ice until you get to a 3 bolt sheltered belay stance on the left.

P3 (30m): Cut out right from the belay and then straight up more steep ice for 20 meters until the angle eases and you finish at a bolted belay on the left.

Descent: One 60m rappel *should* get you to the ground, always tie knots.

Location

Amadeus Falls is the obvious ice line seen from Hwy 40 where you park.  Head straight up the drainage for about an hour to the base of the climb.

Protection

Light trad rack (#1, #2 and #4 C4 Camalots very useful) and a selection of nuts. Standard ice rack.

Photos

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