Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in A. West Side Boulders
|
A Shoe in the Bush... V4 6B |
|
|
Acceptance V8 7B PG13 |
|
Baguette, The V5 6C |
|
|
Barbaric Yawp V6+ 7A PG13 |
|
|
Burdens V7+ 7A+ PG13 |
|
|
Contortionist V5 6C |
|
|
Contortionists Traverse V5 6C |
|
|
Fallout V5 6C |
|
|
French Fries V1 5 |
|
|
Friends V3 6A |
|
|
Grunt & Go V3 6A |
|
|
Into the Sun V4 6B |
|
|
Junk Mail V3-4 6A+ |
|
|
Just the Crust V8 7B |
|
|
Lazy Boi V1-2 5 |
|
|
Lunar Eclipse V1 5 |
|
|
Mail Slot V4 6B |
|
|
Psych V6 7A PG13 |
|
|
Raid the Castle V3-4 6A+ |
|
|
Savage Verse V7 7A+ PG13 |
|
|
Slugfest V3 6A |
|
|
Slumber Party V4 6B |
|
|
Smear Campaign V2 5+ |
|
|
Socially Distant V6 7A PG13 |
|
|
Solar Eclipse V4+ 6B+ PG13 |
|
|
Tree Hugger V2 5+ |
|
|
Wild Rabbit V6+ 7A |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Maybe me |
| Page Views: | 810 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | j.jaeger on Dec 7, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
Start standing left of savage verse 10ft-ish. I started direct, avoiding the dirty and more friable stone to the right. work through slopers and edges to gain a horizontal ledge system at mid height. For the last pull to the ledge use the fattest part of the hold at the lip. The thinner section may snap off. Balance off the rail to a difficult right hand sloping hold and do a big and somewhat insecure lock off to a thin horizontal crimp slot. Without a good matching option, there's another long reach to the lip rewarded by an easy mantle.
Like with the neighbors, the upper rock on this is really good. It would get all the stars if the start was more singular and the lower lip holds were not suspect.
Re: grade: Harder and less secure lockoff than savage verse with easier set up moves. Could be harder than 7, but my radar is way off. The last established 7 i did was covert direct in the red. In comparison, this was two full grades harder for me but FAs always feel harder, so...?
Like with the neighbors, the upper rock on this is really good. It would get all the stars if the start was more singular and the lower lip holds were not suspect.
Re: grade: Harder and less secure lockoff than savage verse with easier set up moves. Could be harder than 7, but my radar is way off. The last established 7 i did was covert direct in the red. In comparison, this was two full grades harder for me but FAs always feel harder, so...?
2 Comments