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Routes in Redmans Tooth
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Chimney of Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Deviant Deviations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Huevos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Left Buddha S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Right Buddha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tower of Dharma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 43.35202, -122.682 |
| FA: | Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1998. |
| Page Views: | 618 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Nov 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Nate Ball |
Description
This route begins from the edge of the road by following a thin, bolted crack system located up the middle of the lower headwall of Buddha Tooth. Climb the crack (5.9 bolted crux) to the ledge about 15 feet up, traverse left (2 bolts) to the base of the large off-width chimney between Left and Right Buddha. Stem the chimney up and to the back to place gear. About 25 feet from the top scramble to the top using left and right cracks (5.6).
Two rope rappel off, currently there are no chains on top.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Topo B pp. 222.
Location
This route begins from the edge of the road by following a thin, bolted crack system located up the middle of the lower headwall of Buddha Tooth.
Buddha Tooth is easily located sitting on the left (N) side of Forest Service Road 4713-200.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon volume 2: Umpqua 2007. Maps 2 & 3 pp. 218-219.
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