Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1998.
Page Views: 60 total · 13/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Nov 24, 2019
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

P1: From the road climb the lower portion of Left Buddha (5.8, left side onto the "left Buddha" or "left tower"). From the base of the left Buddha traverse slightly left using slings around trees as protection. As you traverse left and up you will come to a narrow chimney that forms between the left and middle "towers". Follow the chimney to summit protecting with larger cams to 5 inches.
Rappel >100 feet from summit to road or a shorter rappel to trees on backside. No chains.
Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007.  Topo B page 222.

Location

This route climbs the left chimney between left and middle tower of Buddha Tooth pinnacle. Buddha Tooth pinnacle is easily located as it is the only pinnacle at the edge of Forest Service Road 4713-200. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Maps 2 and 3 pp. 218-219.

Protection

Bolted first pitch, Slings and cams to 5 inches on second half. No Chains.
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

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