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The Orange Menace

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: Gamble, Erickson, and Whitbeck
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > (2) Orange Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Orange Menace is a steep sport  line just left of the classic Comfortizer.  To start, move through the first bolt of Comfortizer, then step left to follow four bolts, one grey and three brown hangers up the steep arete.  From the second bolt move through a balancy and hard to decipher overhang. Then move right and up picking from a variety of sequences, everything is on including the giant fin which you will eventually stand on.  From here move up and left on good holds, clipping another bolt, until you reach the headwall. Thin, balancy, and tricky climbing lead past the final bolt to a jug.  Easy moves take you  to the anchor.

Location

This route starts either at Comfortizer or to the left.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lower crux section of "The Orange Menace"
[Hide Photo] Lower crux section of "The Orange Menace"
The Orange Menace
[Hide Photo] The Orange Menace
David standing below the start.
[Hide Photo] David standing below the start.
I pulled a nice crimp off of the route today. It was about 20" above the first red hanger. Doesn't change the overall difficulty of the route too much.
[Hide Photo] I pulled a nice crimp off of the route today. It was about 20" above the first red hanger. Doesn't change the overall difficulty of the route too much.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I'm curious if others find this to be a squeeze-job? I've spent a lot of time at this wall and never thought "Oh wow you could definitely get another line in between Comfortizer and Agent Orange". But then again I don't spend a lot of time climbing hard sport at Madrone. Nov 27, 2019
Off Route
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Nate,
I would be happy to meet you at the wall. I will belay you on Comfortizer and you can see if Menace somehow infringes upon the experience. Then I will give you a belay on Orange Menace and you can see if you think it is a good route. BTW, although we never officially met, we crossed paths a few years back. My 9 year old and I were cutting poison oak out of the Madrone trails starting down by Divine Wind, you were doing the same coming from the other end. Nov 27, 2019
C h a d
5.12a
[Hide Comment] Orange Menace is a bit of a squeeze job. Hopefully it’s fantastic climbing. I didn’t get a chance to climb it last Saturday. Next time.

Chad Nov 27, 2019
Off Route
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Chad,
Best of luck on the onsight. It is tricky but with patience you can make it to the chains. Nov 29, 2019
phillip Hranicka
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] We used to climb the lower section of Comfortizer often to a lower anchor and this was called "Subarachnoid Space". Playing around one day, my buddy Jeff Walker and I climbed onto the left panel after clipping a long sling on the second (?) bolt. It's been awhile, but Jeff sent this variation by placing a supplemental piece of gear before meeting up with the anchor before the steep "Comfortizer" headwall. Playing off the Subarachnoid Space name, he called it Dura Mater. Nov 30, 2019
Off Route
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] That is an impressive lead. My guess is you guys clipped three bolts on Comfortizer and stepped left off the huge rail. What ever gear your partner placed was highly suspect. I think we added an independent two bolt boulder problem to your line. You can not actually clip any of the Comfortizer bolts from Orange Menace. Want me to change the name? Nov 30, 2019
C h a d
5.12a
[Hide Comment] Comfortizer has been retrobolted. It may be that the original bolts were further left. I don’t remember.

Thanks for the encouragement Eric.

Chad Dec 3, 2019
[Hide Comment] Got on this today. With no expectations or pre-judgment. Did it on TR after leading Comfortizer. Had every draw clipped as directionals to keep us on the intended line. It's almost all independent climbing other than a couple times when your right foot uses feet also used on comfortizer (around the fin). You can't reach comfortizer's bolts while climbing orange menace. Also there is no route directly to the left so technically it's not a squeeze job - the only issue is whether it shares too much rock with Comfortizer - and I don't think it does. I think it's a worthy addition to the list of hard sport routes, but Eric I hope you strongly considered the precedent set by bolting within 4-6 feet of established routes. Our local crags are highly featured so that it's possible to with enough time and money and no ethics drill a new sport line every 5-10 feet (just look at broughton's bat wall) but is that really what we want as a community? (The issue of whether Jeff Walker already did this as an FA is another issue entirely, and Jeff told me he looks forward to climbing orange menace to see how much of it he led) Dec 9, 2019
[Hide Comment] If this is indeed a separate line, then I can't have any problems with it. It does seem to be a bit of a squeeze job though. I agree with brians comments about Bat Wall becoming grid bolted.
I didn't realize you were that old Phillip :-) I did the FA of Comfortizer in '93, it had one rusty 1/4" stud halfway up, with no other signs of being climbed. I bolted and led the whole climb to the top anchor at 12b, realizing the bottom part was stellar, and at 11b would be popular, I added the lower anchor. The 'project' may have been called 'SAS', but the climb has never been called that.
Say 'hi' to Jeff for me. Dec 10, 2019
Off Route
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] I offer a belay to Jeff Walker on the route. I would love to hear what you remember and hope the newer version is as cool as you envisioned. Dec 10, 2019
Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA
5.12a
[Hide Comment] -There is a smaller wasp nest forming in the large chalked up jug crack between the last bolt and the anchors as of 8/25/2021.
-I found this to be a unique line and not a squeeze job.
-Personally, I think its as enjoyable as Wild Things and the first 11b section of Comfortizer.

Thanks for the addition. Aug 26, 2021
Tom Bussell
portland, or
[Hide Comment] Squeeze job or not, this line is stellar. Get on it! Nov 9, 2024