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The Orange Menace
5.12a,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 6
votes
FA: Gamble, Erickson, and Whitbeck
Oregon
> Portland & The…
> Madrone Wall
> (2) Orange Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website -
clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page -
facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
Orange Menace is a steep sport line just left of the classic Comfortizer. To start, move through the first bolt of Comfortizer, then step left to follow four bolts, one grey and three brown hangers up the steep arete. From the second bolt move through a balancy and hard to decipher overhang. Then move right and up picking from a variety of sequences, everything is on including the giant fin which you will eventually stand on. From here move up and left on good holds, clipping another bolt, until you reach the headwall. Thin, balancy, and tricky climbing lead past the final bolt to a jug. Easy moves take you to the anchor.
Location
This route starts either at Comfortizer or to the left.
Protection
[Hide Photo] David standing below the start.
[Hide Photo] I pulled a nice crimp off of the route today. It was about 20" above the first red hanger. Doesn't change the overall difficulty of the route too much.
I would be happy to meet you at the wall. I will belay you on Comfortizer and you can see if Menace somehow infringes upon the experience. Then I will give you a belay on Orange Menace and you can see if you think it is a good route. BTW, although we never officially met, we crossed paths a few years back. My 9 year old and I were cutting poison oak out of the Madrone trails starting down by Divine Wind, you were doing the same coming from the other end. Nov 27, 2019
Chad Nov 27, 2019
Best of luck on the onsight. It is tricky but with patience you can make it to the chains. Nov 29, 2019
Bend, OR
Thanks for the encouragement Eric.
Chad Dec 3, 2019
I didn't realize you were that old Phillip :-) I did the FA of Comfortizer in '93, it had one rusty 1/4" stud halfway up, with no other signs of being climbed. I bolted and led the whole climb to the top anchor at 12b, realizing the bottom part was stellar, and at 11b would be popular, I added the lower anchor. The 'project' may have been called 'SAS', but the climb has never been called that.
Say 'hi' to Jeff for me. Dec 10, 2019
Seattle, WA
-I found this to be a unique line and not a squeeze job.
-Personally, I think its as enjoyable as Wild Things and the first 11b section of Comfortizer.
Thanks for the addition. Aug 26, 2021
portland, or