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Siesta de Los Biceps
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | “Eric Berghorn, Ed Henicle” April, 2019” |
Page Views: | 1,490 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Eric Berghorn on Nov 20, 2019 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb a winding 50’ foot 5.7 cobblestone and nubbin encrusted face past 6 bolts to a sloping ledge. Above the ledge is an optional mid-point lower-off anchor equipped with Mussy hooks. This is a fun lead in itself for the grade and avoids the harder climbing above if desired.
The crux of the climb is the tricky upper section. Pull some hard to see thin moves on small pockets and rounded edges at the base of the Arete. A BIG left reach gets you to a Thank god hold and gets one established on the thin face right of the Arete. (Sustained vertical 25 ft. headwall. 5.11- 4 Bolts.)
The crux of the climb is the tricky upper section. Pull some hard to see thin moves on small pockets and rounded edges at the base of the Arete. A BIG left reach gets you to a Thank god hold and gets one established on the thin face right of the Arete. (Sustained vertical 25 ft. headwall. 5.11- 4 Bolts.)
Location
This is the first route encountered when arriving at the Blind Man’s Bliff Area from the direction of Bubble Rock (about 3-5 min from the Fire Rd.) Belay from a flat dirt ledge 10 ft. above the trail (leading to 3 Blind Mice Climbs.) The anchor at the top of the climb is located near the summit of the airy tower. This tower can be difficult to access from above (Top Rope) without first locating it and scrambling left around an exposed 4th class sloping ramp.
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