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Erection Direct
5.10b,
Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
FA: Pete Noebels, Dennis Abbink, Jim Waugh, 1978
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> Superstition Mo…
> Barks Canyon Wall
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
One of the better, if not best, routes on Barks Canyon Wall. Clean rock and good gear throughout the climb. Pitch one climbs up either side of the pillar (we climbed the left side) to a two bolt belay. Pitch two has engaging face moves to gain right leaning crack and continues over small roof to a large ledge with two bolts. Pitch two is the physical crux. Pitch three climbs the face straight above using the pockets for crafty gear placements, 5.6+ to a two bolt belay.
Rappel the route back to packs or explore the unique area behind the climb. Second rap is a two bolt vertical chain anchor. A stretched single 70m will just reach the base.
Location
This route is on the far right side of Barks Canyon Wall and is easily found by the large pillar (or the Erection) that leans against the wall. There are two sport routes just to the right of this climb.
Protection
Cams to #4, nuts, tri-cams
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Phoenix, AZ
P1 takes tons of micro gear once you get behind the shaft. I used a .1, .2, .3, and a good amount of micro offset nuts. The crack is a little fiddly for nuts so if I did it again I'd probably bring a bunch of tiny cams.
We double rope rapped from the top of P2 since the bolts atop the phallus are a little manky. Jan 30, 2022