Type: TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: TR: Unknown.
Page Views: 438 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ken Hull on Nov 16, 2019
Admins: Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC

You & This Route

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The lower face section of this seemingly blank wall is well known among Donation regulars as a true test of balance, footwork, and reading the rock. It took me a long time to dial this one in and for me it’s all about the balance aspect and sequencing the right moves. For you it maybe totally different. If you’re taller and your “ape index” is like a gorilla, you may find it easier - you can do away with move sequencing because you can just throw your ape arm up, grab and go. My 5’ 6” (on a good day) frame means I have very little to choose from before I’m at the other end of this slab.

Prior to my desire to make it harder, the typical way to continue passed the lower face crux was up the big vertical crack to the left and up the center of that and out (a trad line too). I decided to stitch in another really crimpy and balancey route to the left of the crack on the big face of Triple Play. It requires a bit of a roof pull but the real fun starts above that - a second crimpy face crux with very little to choose from and just when you’re tired and getting pumped. Again, if you’re tall you may get right up this but for my size it’s darn tough! I had to teach myself a technique I’d never even heard of to get myself up high enough to deadpoint the top edge and mantle up and over that face. Once there, you’re home free unless you want to do another 15ft to the top rope anchor. Honestly that block is a walk in the park to what you just did so you might as well bask in the glory and be lowered down to the astonished crowd below. :)

Note: The key (and my rule) to make this route an 11 is that you cannot touch, back-step, or have anything to do with the blocks on the right side of the crack (X’d in red on the route map). You must engage only the face the whole way up and not grab the right edge either. That’s what makes it Skimpy Crimpy Two Crux.


TR anchors at the top of the block above.