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Legacy Bolt

5.8, Sport, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 49 votes
FA: Mack Johnson and Clayton Baber, November 2019
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Deception Crags > Write-off Rock

Description

The interesting feature of this route is the gigantic 1-1/2" thick piece of iron installed during the railroad construction.  It is on a small shelf and hard to see from the base.
Ascend the slab past a tricky crux at the second bolt, sling the "legacy bolt", then finish past horizontals and the top bulge.  The rock at the top is somewhat shattered.  There are 3 bolts linked by chains with steel lowering biners for top anchors.

Location

On the left side of Write-Off Rock, between Flammable Pajamas and Knife in the Toaster.

Protection

4 protection bolts, 60 cm runner for the giant railroad bolt. Small cams may be used in the 3 horizontal cracks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Legacy Bolt
[Hide Photo] Legacy Bolt
Workin' on the Railroad: drilling top anchors for Legacy Bolt
[Hide Photo] Workin' on the Railroad: drilling top anchors for Legacy Bolt
Clayton leads Legacy Bolt on the FA.
[Hide Photo] Clayton leads Legacy Bolt on the FA.
First bolt has been flagged to indicate that leading the route is inadvisable since the 2nd bolt is now missing
[Hide Photo] First bolt has been flagged to indicate that leading the route is inadvisable since the 2nd bolt is now missing

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeremy Hutchinson
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Can you scramble to the top to set up a top rope? Jun 11, 2020
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Jeremy, yes you can. It's 4th class to get up the left side. 5 of the 7 routes at Write-off can be TRed from here. Watch that you don't launch rocks---or yourself---down onto Substation. Jun 12, 2020
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Second bolt replaced with a new one July 18, 2020. Jul 19, 2020
Matthew Grayson
[Hide Comment] The railroad bolt is an interesting feature. It’s too big to fit a carabiner around it. Girth hitch it with a 60cm sling. Nov 4, 2020
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Best route on the wall. Good movement and more or less grippy stone. Apr 12, 2021
Evan McLaughlin
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Sling the iron bar and it's not very runout to the 3rd bolt, and it's on easy terrain anyway. The 4th bolt is missing its hanger as of May 20, but you can get a small piece (I used a BD .4) into the horizontal crack below it. This and Knife are the best routes on the wall. May 20, 2021
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Missing hanger replaced on last bolt August 26.
See comment on the main Write-Off Rock page! Aug 27, 2021
RachelKB
 
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this route. A bit run out above the railroad bolt if you don't place gear, but nothing too difficult in that section. May 10, 2023