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The Dong Wall

5.10b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 144 votes
FA: Tanner Wilson
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > (BRRP) Bald Roc… > S Park

Description

Find some holds to right of the route and figure out a way to high step and get on to the ledge.  Work through a series of large pockets to a somewhat spooky hollow sounding hold that seems to be ok.  Lock off and grope the surprisingly sturdy large dong.  Finish up on good edges and buckets.   

Location

Starts on the left side of the wall, look for the protruding dong on the upper headwall

Protection

5 bolts + Anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Elle taking a whip on the dong wall
[Hide Photo] Elle taking a whip on the dong wall
Dahveed makin it look easy
[Hide Photo] Dahveed makin it look easy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Billy Simek
Campton, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Best on the wall. May 28, 2020
Larry Rossi
Colorado Springs
 
[Hide Comment] This is a would-be great climb that needs to have that big flake cleaned before nature takes its course and someone gets hurt. It wouldn’t be too much harder as a result. Jun 23, 2020
climb2core
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] That flake was attempted to be removed by the FA. it is sounds hollow due to the acoustics in the mini hueco, but it is suprisingly solid. It did not flex and I yarded on it to check it after I climbed the route. Jun 23, 2020
Cockfarmerfrank
[Hide Comment] Larry, I beat on that flake like it owed me money. Tried hammering it off, kicking it off and prying it off. It sounds worse than it is. Im not one to pull off features if they do not seem to be unsafe. But, like you said, the route goes without using it, if it seems sketchy to you, climb around it. The route is more fun that way in my opinion. Oct 21, 2020
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] The plate in question is clearly marked with an "x" and can be easily avoided by foot and hand at grade.
The overhanging climbing is just fun. Just wish the climb is twice as long! Oct 15, 2022
Willow Jordan
Lexington, KY
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Juggier than it looks, lots of fun slots to stick your hands in Dec 7, 2022