PRINT: Rock Climb Time Bandits, Yosemite National Park

Time Bandits

5.12b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 13 votes
FA: FA: Unknown, FFA: Mark Westerberg & Rob Kennedy - November 2019
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 7. Lower Cathed… > N Buttress Base Routes

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Description

The newest addition to the popular cragging area at the base of Lower Cathedral. This former moss-covered mystery is now a clean, safe and modern free climb.

Execute a few tricky bolt-protected slab moves off the ground to a gear protected thin-crack system. Climb up past two more bolts before switching crack systems, to another gear placement. The baffling crux is at the top and it’s protected by two bolts, it can be tackled from either climbing directly up to the crux bolt from below (and to the left of the bolt) or traversing in from the right side of the crux bolt, although it is much easier to clip the crux bolt when approaching from the right. Lower from the bolted anchor next to the tree, or try clipping an anchor bolt and traversing left to finish on the bolt line of Labor of Love.

The first bolt on this route has existed for at least 15 years and we suspect that it this was either placed during an old abandoned attempt to free the route or was placed during an aid ascent.

Location

The route starts just a few feet left of "End Of The Line".

Protection

single cams from tiny to .4 BD, 5 draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the FFA of Time Bandits

Left hand variation

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

paddyrock

The grade is relatively the same for either variation at the crux.
The left side has more movement and seems a little bit more technical.
Right side requires a very delicate mantel a really aggressive chicken wing move and some long arms to stick the crimp. Nov 11, 2019

AlexanderGoldman

5.12b

Great short "sport" climb. 5.11 climbing (did not do the switching cracks, just straight up) leads to v4 mantel (I used left hand sloper, right palm on a spike to right hand toe match). Then after another no hands rest, the business is a v6 feeling slab move that was a reach for me at 5'11" (not sure about the left/right var, seemed straight up the bolts). Felt like 12+ so the grade is appropriate for Yosemite. Runout sections take med-sized nuts well, or u can use .3 low and .4 (offset better) up higher. Give it some love. Apr 21, 2021

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA

Friendly bolting to go ground up on.

The right beta "mantle" can be easily skipped with a few circuitous moves further right. But without some reach you have nowhere to go after that.

The left beta just goes for a reasonable grade at 5'7", but the last bolt is un-clippable unless extended 2'. May 15, 2023

Kevin Crum
Oakdale

"oh sweet im going to onsight"
- climber right before the crux Jan 20, 2026

Vlad S
San Francisco, CA

5.12d

This is significantly harder than advertised for climbers under 6 ft. The "right" option (using the obvious good crimps/feet below and to the right of the business) doesn't go at all. The left works, but it's desperate and highly friction dependent. Mar 23, 2026