Type: Trad, Aid, 170 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Ben Kiessel 10/26/19
Page Views: 58 total · 22/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Nov 8, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Scramble up the awkward slot that separates the Butts Plug and the Proctologist's Finger from the east side. Work around right on slabby shelves to the start of a short bolt-ladder. Aid up the bolts/drilled angles until you can free up a cleft to a roof with a fistcrack. There was a sizeable bush that was removed directly above this roof on the FA, it will likely be grown back in and need some work again. Wriggle up the flared chimney and OW cracks to a bedding seam ledge below a massive, somewhat spooky detached flake feature. Aid or free out the steep underside of the flake feature and wriggle up some more flared slot to the rad, flat summit.

There are the typical hollow flakes that accompany most Cedar Mesa sandstone routes, but overall this is pretty straightforward and relatively clean.

Rap to the south off of chained anchors, back into the cleft dividing the Butts Plug and the Proctologist's Finger with every bit of a 70m rope. It's a long rap, and you will probably have to rap off the ends and downclimb easy chimney a few feet to the dirt. Just watch the ends, pay attention, and it's fine.

Location

The route is the obvious crack/chimney feature on the SE side of the tower with bolts leading up to it. 

Protection

In BD C4 sizes:
(1X) .75
(2X) #1-#3
(1X) #4-#6
(1X) 70m rope

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