KHullka

I thought this was Barber's Roof and I posted it as such. Well, I was close but not correct. According to a guy who was there when Henry Barber put up his route and named it, the actual line is right around the corner from this one. So, this route here will go back to the only name I had for it which was what I called it after sending it clean for the first time. I projected it back in 2014 with Brandon Kotulka. He couldn't finish the project so I worked it alone till I got it. Thanks Brandon for the beginning beta!

Like High 5, this is also essentially a high-ball boulder problem. However the real problem is, if you come off the crux, even a big stack of Organic’s pads aren’t going to save you - you’re going to be hurt, really hurt. The beginning is an easy .6 walk up to the beginning of the crux - pulling the arête of a huge overhanging roof. The way I get to that is to run along a horizontal rail with my hands to the rounded-off end of that. With my foot jammed in under the roof for stability, I reach out far right and grab the nose. Then I unlock my foot and am free hanging by my hands. I lock a right foot in under the nose and the next move is key - a right hand deadpoint to a semi-vertical rail ¾ the way up the arête. Hand placement here is crucial! Miss it by just an inch or two and you’re off - completely off. Nail it, and you then get a left foot on the wall in front of you and reach up with a high left to the same arête rail. This part is bomber and on about a 45 degree slope. Hit that and you can then pretty much stand up and then mantle up on top. That’s it really. The rest is like 5.6 again up two stacked little walls. Top out there and you can be lowered if you want.

Now, if you REALLY want some fun - try The Leap of Faith! When you get to the top of the second stack, turn around and look at the massive rock roof that’s above The Flake. You will see the same “chicken head” that you use to pull that roof on that route. Stand at the edge where you are and jump across the 40ft chasm and lock on to the chicken head with both hands! Don’t worry, if you miss, you’re fine - you’re on top rope and you’ll be like Superman. If/when you nail it, let both feet swing once and then use that momentum to pull up and engage them to the rock. Then reach with a high left to another head and pull yourself up and on top! Super fun!!! Now simply get lowered to the fanfare below! As far as I know I’m the first to do this jump part so I named it.

Top rope anchor off The Flake anchors and make sure your biners are going off the left-front side. This will reduce your swing if you come off the crux and make for an excellent Leap of Faith.

UPDATE: KHullka was just led on trad by my friend Shawn Daugherty!

TR: Anchor off The Flake anchors but drop to the left side as looking down. Some redirects are helpful to minimize the swing.

Trad: Single rack. BD #0.75 C4 and (optional) #0.1 C3 protect the crux and a #4 is useful for the horizontal seam(s) above