Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: TR: Unknown Sport: Ken Hull 10/19
Page Views: 645 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ken Hull on Nov 8, 2019
Admins: SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: CLIMBING AT DONATION REQUIRES A SIGNED ONLINE WAIVER Details

Description

I love this route! Especially now that it’s sport! Sure you can still top rope it but now you not only up your game, you eliminate the wicked swing if you come off. The 10+ rating is based on leading it. I would say it's more like 9+ on top rope fyi.

The main route is the same - sport or TR, the only real variation is at the start. When I was first doing this route I was instructed to go up the right side of the gully, up on a broad platform, then proceed to the skinny platform (what I like to call “the plank”) against the face. The problem is, that first platform gets super dirty because of debris washing down the gully. It’s dirties your hands and shoes. Not good for the next phase which happens to be the crux. I now start where the bolt line is and proceed up on clean rock avoiding the dirty platform altogether. This also sets me up to pull up and over the plank which I enjoy. Once on the plank, just spin around and get ready for the fun part!

Without getting too detailed, the premise of this section is to reach up to that diagonal flake (aka rail) above your head, and go hand-over-hand up it while working your feet between the face and the arête. The key to begin all this is mostly nerves. If you can let your mind go free and focus on the moves, you can release yourself from the plank and smoothly go into lay back mode and Git r Done. Pulling up to the last move to gain the top of this section is tough but you’ll figure it out. Hint: look for the awesome heal-hook on the arête near bolt five.

The next big phase could be considered a crux and is my favorite part - engaging and pulling the gigantic roof that looms over this entire bottom section. Again, I won’t go into detail so you can discover it for yourself, but there are holds above the roof that are bomber! After that, it’s a breeze to the anchors and a good stance while there. Here it’s best to run your rope through the bottom quick links and be lowered down or rap if you like.

Note: If you’re sport climbing, it’s best to use an extended draw at bolt seven to get your rope out from under the roof. Also this one’s really tough to clean on the descent. Have your second clean it on TR.

Location

Left side of the Big Gully on the Main Wall. The best start is under bolt one.

Protection

Eight glue in bolts to glue in anchors with chains and quick links. TR anchors above that on top.

Photos

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