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Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (v) Monument Area
> (7) The Monument
> E Face
Trail Blazer
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
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Routes in East Face
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Direct Drive S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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One and Done S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Star Driven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trail Blazer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave McRae, solo. FFA: Dave McRae and Mai Hyman 6/23/2019 |
| Page Views: | 200 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | Dave McRae on Nov 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug
Details
This is an annual closure that usually lasts from February to August. Check the website for regularly updates. This is what it said in 2017...
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
Game Plan
Trail Blazer is a two pitch route with a steep flake first pitch.
First Half. 5.11a**** Gear. A bolt protected start on steep junk quickly gives way to solid rock with two more bolts to a steep crack. Exit the crack right at a bolt. If climbing the second pitch, continue another 30 feet of 5.8 to the higher of two anchors. 90 feet to higher anchor.
Second Half. 5.10c*** Bolted. Exposed with cryptic sequences on good rock. Optional .75 Camalot. 75 ft.
"For Smith climbing to rise again, a new generation will need to not merely follow in the the footsteps of those who came before, but blaze their own trails up the golden walls of tuff." -Alan Watts
First Half. 5.11a**** Gear. A bolt protected start on steep junk quickly gives way to solid rock with two more bolts to a steep crack. Exit the crack right at a bolt. If climbing the second pitch, continue another 30 feet of 5.8 to the higher of two anchors. 90 feet to higher anchor.
Second Half. 5.10c*** Bolted. Exposed with cryptic sequences on good rock. Optional .75 Camalot. 75 ft.
"For Smith climbing to rise again, a new generation will need to not merely follow in the the footsteps of those who came before, but blaze their own trails up the golden walls of tuff." -Alan Watts
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