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> Southeast Face
Trail Blazer
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Direct Drive S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One and Done S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Star Driven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trail Blazer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave McRae, solo. FFA: Dave McRae and Mai Hyman 6/23/2019 |
| Page Views: | 869 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Dave McRae on Nov 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Game Plan
Trail Blazer is a two pitch route with a steep flake first pitch.
First Half. 5.11a**** Gear. A bolt protected start on steep junk quickly gives way to solid rock with two more bolts to a steep crack. Exit the crack right at a bolt. If climbing the second pitch, continue another 30 feet of 5.8 to the higher of two anchors. 90 feet to higher anchor.
Second Half. 5.10c*** Bolted. Exposed with cryptic sequences on good rock. Optional .75 Camalot. 75 ft.
"For Smith climbing to rise again, a new generation will need to not merely follow in the the footsteps of those who came before, but blaze their own trails up the golden walls of tuff." -Alan Watts
First Half. 5.11a**** Gear. A bolt protected start on steep junk quickly gives way to solid rock with two more bolts to a steep crack. Exit the crack right at a bolt. If climbing the second pitch, continue another 30 feet of 5.8 to the higher of two anchors. 90 feet to higher anchor.
Second Half. 5.10c*** Bolted. Exposed with cryptic sequences on good rock. Optional .75 Camalot. 75 ft.
"For Smith climbing to rise again, a new generation will need to not merely follow in the the footsteps of those who came before, but blaze their own trails up the golden walls of tuff." -Alan Watts
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