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Routes in Shock and Awe
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Building Nations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Find, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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GW Reach-Around T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sad Saddam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shock and Awe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tear Gas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown choss start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown TR TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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unnamed left facing corner with a bolt for pro near the top T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.11369, -109.5622 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 643 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Stern on Nov 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route starts with a few feet of choss at the bottom to get into a fun stem-box. Pull the awesome reach around moves to get to an easier fingers and hands section with ledges. The top of the crack pinches down to tips and smaller (crux) and the rock gets a little softer and sandier. One of the better routes at the cliff and the stem-box/reach-around bit is rather unique.
Location
Located on the right side of the cliff, right of Shock & Awe and Tear Gas and a good ways left of Sad Saddam.
Protection
Black alien/purple C3 up to a #2 camalot. Heavy on blue-green alien and/or green-red C3 sizes.
The anchor is two good bolts with webbing and fixed carabiners. The bolts are vertically offset by about 6" and the addition of some chain and links would be great if you're so inclined.
Note on route length: the book calls this one 100' but says you need a 70m rope. We had a 70m rope and I don't remember how much was left when we climbed it. Proceed with caution if using a 60m!
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