Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 415 total · 10/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Nov 7, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: CLOSED FOR RAPTORS Details

Description

This route starts with a few feet of choss at the bottom to get into a fun stem-box. Pull the awesome reach around moves to get to an easier fingers and hands section with ledges. The top of the crack pinches down to tips and smaller (crux) and the rock gets a little softer and sandier. One of the better routes at the cliff and the stem-box/reach-around bit is rather unique.

Location

Located on the right side of the cliff, right of Shock & Awe and Tear Gas and a good ways left of Sad Saddam.

Protection

Black alien/purple C3 up to a #2 camalot. Heavy on blue-green alien and/or green-red C3 sizes.

The anchor is two good bolts with webbing and fixed carabiners. The bolts are vertically offset by about 6" and the addition of some chain and links would be great if you're so inclined.

Note on route length: the book calls this one 100' but says you need a 70m rope. We had a 70m rope and I don't remember how much was left when we climbed it. Proceed with caution if using a 60m!

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