PRINT: Rock Climb Explosive Testimony, Taos Area

Explosive Testimony

5.7 PG13, Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: Chuck Calef
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > N Rock

Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Also, this is a seasonal raptor nesting area. Details

See the USGS topo map mountainproject.com/photo/1… showing the private property boundaries (shaded areas).

The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.

In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.

An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.

Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Description

Climb the left of two cracks. A steep start leads to easy jamming with face holds. The crux is near the top as you move right into a seam with tricky gear placements. Finish on easy face climbing.

Location

Located on the low-angle east face of north rock. The corner of the east face and north face is a rounded, grid-bolted arete (see photo). To the left of that arete is a chimney and to the left of the chimney an excellent mixed trad and bolt route. Explosive Testimony is on the face about 40 feet left of the latter.

Protection

Mixed cams and nuts. Nothing larger than hand size required. About 15 feet back from the top of this route is an excellent horizontal crack for placing anchors. No bolts. You can belay from the top (or top-rope) and walk off easily to the south.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Explosive Testimony" is the crack on the left with a dogleg right into the next seam right near the top. The right-hand crack with some grass is "Lose the Ego". It also moves right near the top to…

The grid-bolted pillar that marks the corner of the east face (to the left) and the north face (around and behind the pillar) of North Rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chuck Calef

5.7 PG13

As we suited up for this climb a text-alert rattled Darien's phone: new Explosive Testimony in the Trump impeachment investigation! Nov 6, 2019

Jay Foley

Nice one Chuck! Apr 22, 2020