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Mummy Cooler III

WI3+ M5, Trad, Mixed, Ice, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II,  Avg: 3.2 from 20 votes
FA: Jim Kanzler & Pat Callis. Nov. 1971
Montana > Southwest Region > Hyalite Canyon > Mummy Area
Warning Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. DetailsDrop down

Description

After slogging up the gully from below, kick out a nice comfy platform in the snow on the right of the route. Climb the 50 meter route on either all rock, or all ice, or a mix of both.  If it is all iced up, it goes at WI3, if all rock a moderate mixed grade is given.  After cresting the top out of the route, head right for a few meters around a small rock outcrop to a two bolt belay.

You can see this route from both the parking lot and again from the Amphitheater climbing area for conditions. 

Location

Located a couple hundred meters slog above The Scepter, it is impossible to miss from below. Climb either the Scepter, and continue above the route, climbing a 1 meter ice step above the fixed top belay on the Scepter, then follow the gully up, or climb Mummy Cooler II, and traverse left (North) into the gully above the scepter at your convenience.

Note, this gully is Avalanche prone.  Be smart. 

Protection

Either a mixed rack or all screws depending on condition. Some pound in gear may be helpful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon Jugenheimer approaching Mummy III and IV
[Hide Photo] Jon Jugenheimer approaching Mummy III and IV
Jon Jugenheimer on Mummy III
[Hide Photo] Jon Jugenheimer on Mummy III
Mummy III & IV in phat (dec23). no rock pro needed, stubby protected lower thin portion.
[Hide Photo] Mummy III & IV in phat (dec23). no rock pro needed, stubby protected lower thin portion.
Mummy 3 and 4 at dusk - Late Jan. 2023
[Hide Photo] Mummy 3 and 4 at dusk - Late Jan. 2023
Looking down Mummy III, Jan 2023
[Hide Photo] Looking down Mummy III, Jan 2023
Mummy 3 with just enough ice to be not that bad.
[Hide Photo] Mummy 3 with just enough ice to be not that bad.
Mummy 3 and 4
[Hide Photo] Mummy 3 and 4

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  M6- R
[Hide Comment] Climbed in very dry conditions (Jan. 2023) with only a smattering of thin and aerated ice on the upper lower angle portion of the route. Though the rock quality and movement was generally excellent, the insecure nature of the climbing and marginal protection kept the vibe serious. This definitely isn't your average plug and chug M5. Pulling onto the ice hose above involved some powerful vertical moves above small shallow gear placements, and by the time I reached reliable ice (40 some meters up) I was runout at least 30 some feet on M4 terrain.

Talking to a few other Hyalite climbers it was universally agreed this pitch gets harder and more difficult to protect as the ice recedes. I suggest M6 unless screw-suitable ice is pouring over the steeper rock. A rack heavy in small cams and wires, with cams up to 3 inches served me well, though on the upper verglas smattered slabs I would have given my left nut for some pitons.

Nonetheless, four stars here. A really cool pitch. Jan 22, 2023