Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II
FA: Jim Kanzler & Pat Callis. Nov. 1971
Page Views: 1,858 total · 39/month
Shared By: Double J on Nov 6, 2019
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details


After slogging up the gully from below, kick out a nice comfy platform in the snow on the right of the route. Climb the 50 meter route on either all rock, or all ice, or a mix of both.  If it is all iced up, it goes at WI3, if all rock a moderate mixed grade is given.  After cresting the top out of the route, head right for a few meters around a small rock outcrop to a two bolt belay.

You can see this route from both the parking lot and again from the Amphitheater climbing area for conditions. 


Located a couple hundred meters slog above The Scepter, it is impossible to miss from below. Climb either the Scepter, and continue above the route, climbing a 1 meter ice step above the fixed top belay on the Scepter, then follow the gully up, or climb Mummy Cooler II, and traverse left (North) into the gully above the scepter at your convenience.

Note, this gully is Avalanche prone.  Be smart. 


Either a mixed rack or all screws depending on condition. Some pound in gear may be helpful.