PRINT: Rock Climb Too Much Candy, Indian Creek

Too Much Candy

5.11, Trad, 125 ft (38 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
FA: Sean McLane and Blayne Ferrell, Nov 2019, FFA Sean McLane
Utah > Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Indian Creek > Trick or Treat Wall

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures! Details

2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Too Much Candy is a sweet, splitter 5s crack with a couple steep 4s thrown in for good measure. Start on the left side of a broken pillar and clip a lone protection bolt (not used on the FFA but gear in the pillar would be useless). Then get in the crack as it steepens and eventually overhangs for the last third. If your knee doesn't fit in smaller 5s or you can't fist jam medium 4s, be ready for a fight. Also take an 80m because this is pretty much a full 40m.

Location

Left of Trick or Treat around 100', this is the splitter offwidth in the left wall of a dihedral. There is a plaque at the base.

Protection

One quickdraw, 4 #4s, and 6 #5s, optional #6. I believe I placed 4 #5s, 3 #4s, and the optional #6 just above the pillar because we had it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rattly fists in the headwall - photo by Quinn Rohlf

Milking the elbow jam on the FFA - photo by Quinn Rohlf

I was presented with a very nice plaque just after sending - photo by Quinn Rohlf

Chris clipping the sole bolt on the route

Gotta eat Too Much Candy if you want to fit in this big boy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Roy Suggett

Nice work guys! Nov 6, 2019

slim	[Hide Comment] wow, that looks sweet! nice addition! Nov 6, 2019

Dan Nix
Denver, CO

Bomber knees with a few constrictions to climb around except for the start and the end. Get on it! Nov 13, 2021

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA

5.11+

3 #4's and 3 #5's is perfect (plus the QD and optional #6). Leave a #5 at the first constriction and backclean any #4s so you have them all at the top (2 #4's might be fine if you have large hands).

The majority of the #5 climbing is pretty comfy; wider than Dentist Chair and way wider than Monster Truck. The final section of #4s felt absolutely brutal to me through; overhanging and wider than fists but too narrow to calf lock.

Take care to not get your #5 stuck bumping at the top, though. It stops fitting just below the final ledge. Nov 16, 2023