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This Sport Needs an Enema
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in G) Diamond Point
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Breadcrumb Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack A Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Side, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Durometer 64 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fine Motor Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gift of Grace, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homer Erectus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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How Hard is That Thang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leave it to Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leave it to Jesus Direct Finish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ovine Seduction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raging Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remission T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Straight Up and Stiff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Strike A Scowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupendid Animation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Supersymmetry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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This Sport Needs an Enema S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Weatherman's Thumb, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Zygomatic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05317, -81.05956 |
| FA: | Eric Horst, Rick Thompson 1989 |
| Page Views: | 782 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Nevko on Nov 5, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Route begins with some normal dirty entry slab. It appears not to get much traffic at this time or gets easily washed clean.
Get yourself established in the bottom of the dihedral, and then get up the layback feature to the middle of the head wall.
(For me, possible "new" crux Above the 5th bolt, it looks like a functional jug hold broke off exposing orange rock scar, move is still very much possible with a 1 pad 3 finger crimp, to the left of it. I think move is harder and more powerful now.)
Get yourself established in the horizontal finger slot and make some awesome dynamic "dunkslap" move to the top of the crack.
It was listed before as 5.12b. I am just leaving it as 5.12.
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